Need help fast! My whirlpool ultimate care II washer is 2 years old. has worked good up until tonight. it filled, agitated, but won't drain or spin. What do i do? I have a washer full of soaking wet towels. many thanks for ANY help Well, I'm no pro, but here's some troubleshooting information in the meanwhile. From this site: http://www.repairclinic.com/0088_11_1.asp#Level2_6 If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows: If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
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While inspecting the combustion chamber on my Rheem RONC-112 oil furnace for rust/burn through, I broke what I'll call the fibrous heat distributing basket that extends around and in front of the air tube on the Beckett oil burner. Turns out it is really, really fragile, and setting the burner assembly down to hard can cause it to break. SO, question is, what is this thing, is it uber-essential, and how do I find a replacement if absolutely necessary? My inclination is that it is a baffle intended to more evenly distribute the heat and stop the flame from burning out the back of the combustion chamber... but I'm no expert and I don't know. I can't find any reference to one of these anywhere on the internet. Please help me identify and educate. I've attached pictures of the broken piece as it orients to the burner, all removed from the furnace, and a shot inside the combustion chamber. What you have broken is the combustion chamber. Yes, it is essential. DO NOT run the furnace without it. To do so will likely result in a prompt burnout of the heat exchanger. You are probably going to have to get it from a Rheem dealer, if it is even available. You might want to try Patriot Supply -. They may or may not have it. If there is an aftermarket part available it likely would be made by Lynn. *sigh* Anyone on here a Rheem dealer that's willing to look up that part number for me? The local rheem dealer told me very politely to go pound sand. Internet is absolutely zero help - if it was a dishwasher I could find the part number in minutes It's a Rheem RONC-112. I need a combustion chamber. Got one to sell? I'm all ears. I did e-mail one place am supposed to get a reply within 1/2 hr. but I'm not holding my breath. I can get a part# tomorrow. I contacted my local Rheem distributor today was informed the chamber is not available as a separate part, only as part of the complete heat exchanger. A skilled inovative tech could probably make one from a wet pack. A skilled inovative tech could probably make one from a wet pack. I've done some creative work with refractories and I sure wouldn't take on the job of trying to duplicate that chamber. It looks to me that your only recourse is to purchase the entire combustion chamber and heat exchanger repair kit or installing a new furnace. unfortunately, the cost of a complete heat eaxchanger is prohibitive, as is a new furnace (obviously). Before I start searching craigslist for a used (up) furnace, would one of these combustion chambers work? It appears from the limited description to be a 'universal' combustion chamber of roughly the same dimension as the one I broke... and it's cheap! Patriot Supply - 1039 Anyone know if this is a 'universal', as it gives the dimensions, and even if it's not is there any reason I couldn't use it if I can find a way to securely attach it to the plate the old combustion chamber was attached to? Thanks again! Originally Posted by furd I've done some creative work with refractories and I sure wouldn't take on the job of trying to duplicate that chamber. It looks to me that your only recourse is to purchase the entire combustion chamber and heat exchanger repair kit or installing a new furnace. I also found this, for a photo of the chamber mentioned in the last post: http://www.fwwebb.com/pdf/htgcat03/2003htgcat_p132.pdf what about alternately using the wet blanket to line the heat exchanger walls so it will act as a combustion chamber? I talked with another person at the supply house today. It seems the original parts guy or I used the wrong model number. The chamber is available the part number is: AS-46531-09 My supply house does not have one in stock would take about 4-5 days to get but maybe someone in your area does have it. Originally Posted by Grady I talked with another person at the supply house today. It seems the original parts guy or I used the wrong model number. The chamber is available the part number is: AS-46531-09 My supply house does not have one in stock would take about 4-5 days to get but maybe someone in your area does have it. Thank you so much! It being the weekend here I won't be able to look until Monday. I found it online at partsguy.com for about $200. This still leaves me interested in that universal looking one I posted earlier and if it's applicable. I'm very mechanical and can likely adapt as needed if it is even possible. Anyone? That is very close to what the part would cost me (including shipping). I'm told because of the size the way Rheem packs it, it would be oversize for UPS comes via freight. The shipping was about 40% of the cost. Sounds fishy to me. The parts list I got lists that part as: Combustion Chamber / Burner Mounting Plate I suggest you call them to verify this is the right part. Be sure to have the complete model serial numbers of your furnace handy when you call. Originally Posted by Grady That is very close to what the part would cost me (including shipping). I'm sure that price doesn't include shipping, so it's probably considerably more expensive as you noted. It would make sense that it was pre-mounted to the burner plate, looks to be a minorly sensitive mounting. How about that $20 from patriot supply? I'm no oil guy, so this is what I regard as common sense: You are LUCKY, LUCKY, LUCKY that you can get the original part at a modest cost! Don't even think about patching something together on your own! You have already learned what the downside of DIY can be by breaking the original. Don't make that a lot worse by risking your family's health and safety by patching together a key component that obviously undergoes great thermal stress from having all that oil burned in it, year after year. In my view, the alternative would be replacing your existing oil furnace. On the bright side, I see quite a few rather late model oil furnaces available for free on Craigslist or for a few dollars because people are abandoning oil in droves, at least around here. I have to agree with S/P on this one. If the part from Patriot were an exact replacement, I'd say go for it but these universal wet packs are not easy to shape especially with the fact the chamber is horizontal with all the holes you would have to cut in it? Stick with the OEM part even at 10X the cost. Even as an experienced professional, I would. thank you everyone for your inputs. I guess I've got some thinking to do. Used furnaces are certainly not free here, the oldest ones can be had for $125, and there's a new thermopride 0C5-85 for $1200 (all via craigslist). A new furnace (with no efficiency gains if the AFUE is correct for furnaces 14 years apart) for six times the cost of fixing the old one is not an easy comparison. Again, I thank you all for helping me. If you ever need help fixing a car just let me know Anyone know anything about that thermo pride unit? Thermo-Pride is THE premier oil fired furnace. They are built to last last last. If I had warm air heat, I'd have a Thermo-Pride, no doubt about it. I routinely work on them 20+ years old that are still in great shape. The OC5-85, I think is a discontinued model do you really need that much heat? Anyway, here's a link to the install manual: http://www.thermopride.com/manuals/Mo100G.pdf I really don't need that much heat, but it's significantly less than the current rheem's rating, and it's what's available on craigslist Twice what I need is better than four times what I need, right? I think an in-the-box new thermopride, even if it is a few years old, for $1200 is probably a great deal, particularly since it's almost the same dimensions as my current furnace and the correct configuration. My wife has told me 'just get it over with', so I think this is the route I'm taking. I'm heading there now to look at it, and if the dimensions work out it's coming home with me. The price is right, no steal but a good price. Be prepared with a strong back. Thermo-Pride is HEAVY. Originally Posted by torgysbuick I really don't need that much heat, but it's significantly less than the current rheem's rating, and it's what's available on craigslist Twice what I need is better than four times what I need, right? I think an in-the-box new thermopride, even if it is a few years old, for $1200 is probably a great deal, particularly since it's almost the same dimensions as my current furnace and the correct configuration. My wife has told me 'just get it over with', so I think this is the route I'm taking. I'm heading there now to look at it, and if the dimensions work out it's coming home with me. Thermo Pride is great ! Good people and good equipment ! Good luck in your decision ! can anyone point me to decode the serial number on this thermo pride to find out when it was manufactured? No code to it. You have to call Thermo-Pride. You can get a rough idea by using the date code off of the burner control. Honeywell uses a 4 digit date code. For example 2502 would be the 25th week of 2002.
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Has anyone had any experience, pro or con, with this product? The system looks fairly straightforward. They have these sheets (reusable)you soak with formula then apply to the walls. Surface tension must keep them in place. I'm sure the sheets hold the moisture in so it works into the paste faster and more thoroughly. I wonder how you keep them on a ceiling? Got an old house and the ceilings are papered, too. Looks like many layers. Thanks. It works like a charm. I had a kitchen with 30 years of wallpaper, 3 layers, applied over unprimed wallboard. It took off all three layers without damaging the wallboard. The paper you apply is a strange fibrous covering, that retains the moisure very well. It adheres well to walls, but I don't know about ceilings. You do have to leave it on for a while, but it works lvery well. I highly recommend it. Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try... Originally Posted by kimeyers It works like a charm. I had a kitchen with 30 years of wallpaper, 3 layers, applied over unprimed wallboard. It took off all three layers without damaging the wallboard. The paper you apply is a strange fibrous covering, that retains the moisure very well. It adheres well to walls, but I don't know about ceilings. You do have to leave it on for a while, but it works lvery well. I highly recommend it. Thank you so much for writing this post. I have recently bought a new apartment, which was covered in old wallpaper. The contractor hadn’t primed the walls prior to application. We had tried lots of different products to remove the wallpaper, but it was coming off in small pieces, no bigger than a thumb nail. We had all but lost hope of ever being able to remove it. I thought I would have a search on the Internet to see if we had missed something. I thought that surely someone had to have invented an easier method by now. After reading this I thought I would give Wallwik a try. I didn’t have much hope, but figured that I had nothing to lose. I am delighted to say that Wallwik worked where all the other products had failed. Not only did it work well, but the paper came off in big pieces. Within half a day we had striped two large rooms. I will be recommending Wallwik to everyone from now on.
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I am about to choose a home water softener for a brand new house. Why are two-tank water softener systems considered better than one-tank systems? For better clarity... two tank means one resin tank and a brine tank, whther the resin tank is inside the brine tank or not; which is called a cabinet model but still a two tank. The other type, and what I think you are asking about, is a twin tank. Meaning two resin tanks and a brine tank. They regenerate immediately as opposed to two tank softeners that delay regeneration until no other water will be used, such as 2:00. The twins do that by taking the just exhausted tank off line and putting the Standby tank online and then immediately regenerate the exhausted tank using water from the tank that is online. That doesn't make any type better than the other type unless there is a proven need for one type over the other two. Agreed? But then when we get into marketing, we see twin tanks being 'sold' as better. IMO the 'better' part is for the benefit of the salesperson unless there is a real need for 24 hour/day soft water, or IOWs, no time available during 24 hours when a two tank softener can use water for 1.5 to 2 hours without other water being used. Which if other water is used, it is hard water. So, in that marketing, many folks are told many things but in most cases no disadvantages of having a twin tank model. Disadvantages like you get to share your water flow with the softener as it regenerates, you have two resin tanks and only use one at a time and they take up more roomand the part about no need for a reserve.... they should tell you that regenerating with soft water uses capacity and just about as much salt as having a reserve does. What make/model are you looking at? Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2 Pardon my error -- this will be my first water softener, so I'm not very knowledgeable. I guess I should have asked whether it makes much difference to have an all-in-one unit (e.g., ECOWATER ECR 3000R30) or one with a separate brine tank (e.g., ECOWATER ESD 2502R30). Is a system with a separate brine tank easier to service? I'm also considering a somewhat comparable Sears (Ultrasoft 280/275) unit and two from Culligan (the Medallist and the Gold). There are 2 adults, no children, and 1937 sq. ft. of finished living space. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Cabinet models are very hard to work on when compared to a two separate tanks or twin tank softeners. They usually cost more than a two separate tank model. The brands you mention are high priced and proprietary equipment; meaning you only get service and parts from their dealer. I'll suggest that that is not a good position to be in and why pay more when you can get an industry standard Clack, Fleck or Autotrol valve beased softener that you can buy from many internet or local dealers and get parts from any of them? Anyone with the desire can install their own softener with 30 minutes to assemble it and another 30 minutes to learn to solder if needed. Or, hire someone to install it and still save hundreds to maybe 2k and IMO have better equipmnt. If I'm right, all of the brands you mention don't use industry standard tanks! Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2 Gary's comments (which I very much appreciate and value): 1. Why pay more when you can get an industry standard Clack, Fleck or Autotrol valve based softener that you can buy from many internet or local dealers and get parts from any of them? 2. If I'm right, all of the brands you mention don't use industry standard tanks! My answer is because I don't know: 1A. Which softeners are based on these valves, and 1B. Where to get them locally (Lowes, Menards, a plumbing supplier???) 2. Which brands use industry standard tanks? Even at an online site such as CAI Technologies, there are so many models and choices (capacity, jacket option, style) that it is truly mind-boggling for a completely naive water softener shopper. I am totally unfamiliar with plumbing and soldering, so I do not know intall a water softener. I don't even know tell whether I have 3/4 or 1 supply piping. Thanks again for any help you can provide. It's easier to find those that don't use industry standard components by asking everyone selling softeners. I suggest independent dealers and you find them on the internet and in your local yellow pages. All big box store brands are proprietary equipment with non-industry standard tanks and control valves. Sorry to say but most plumbiners only know install equipment and little about how it works etc.. I've taught many people solder and practice. All you need to learn how is the desire, a soldering kit for about $50 and $20 worth of plumbing parts. And I'm sure there are books about soldering. Gary xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Company Name Removed Only Doug Aleshire, Super Moderator 2
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Started clearing off results of our latest snow storm this morning with my Toro 521 Snowthrower. Snow was very heavy and wet. Snowthrower is a 5hp and seemed to work ok at first as long as I didn't push it. After awhile the main, or primary auger, (on the left side from the operators position) stopped turning. The other auger seems to work ok. I can turn the auger that stopped working by hand, it doesn't feel like it is attached to any gears....does this sound like a sheer-pin or something equivalent? If so, is it a difficult job to replace? I can use all the help I can get.....thanks, John john It definately sounds like you broke a shear bolt. If you look at the auger in question you will see a spot for a (possibly 5/16-18) bolt to go through. If it sheared completly you may have to use a punch to knock the rest of the bolt out of the auger shaft. Spin the auger shaft around to where the bolt used to go and you may see where the hole is. Before you so this, remove the spark plug wire from the plug. snoman Thanks Snoman, I will follow your good advice. John jmel, how'd you make out? I know this is a tricky shear bolt to replace due the drum style collector. I've had instances, on these units, where I've had to remove the end frame of the auger housing to access the bolt. I was very happy to see these postings - 46 months after they were submitted. I had the exact same problem with an identical Toro 521 Snow Thrower after clearing 20+ inches of wet snow from my driveway last week. Just like jmel's machine, my 16-yr old Toro was only throwing snow from 1/2 of it's width. Turns out that it was missing the left hand side sheer pin allowing one of the two primary augers to spin freely when the unit was shut down. I found a usable replacement for the missing sheer pin and after rummaging through one of my (many) old bins of assorted junk. I found a 3 long 1/4 hardened screw and some locking nuts. Five minutes later the problem was solved. 12 of snow is due tonight here in Southeastern CT so I'll be able to test the fix tomorrow. Wish me luck and thank you all for this very useful post. dvandors One thing that got my attention is that you mention you found a 1/4 hardened bolt. That may be a mistake because you either want to use a low grade bolt or an actual shear bolt. Hardened bolts won't break as easily as shear bolts when you encounter something hard, thus causing possible damage to another area of your snowblower (which is usually the expensive parts). Your fix will probably get you through the running of your machine but I would get a proper shear bolt as soon as time permits. snoman Toro uses grade 5 bolts for shear bolts AJ Good to know. The other side of the auger just sheered - I applied the same temporary fix but at the same time, I ordered Toro replacement parts and will swap them when they arrive. Thanks again!
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Have a tecumseh snow king engine 4cycle Lh318sa that when started puts and only stay running with choke in middle and idle has to be high.black smoke upon startup and gas leaks when priming it.did this since new .should it run smooth or is that how they run. dont know much about small engine repair but i can change spark plug(lol). any advise to what can be done.nothing done as to changing anything since new .thanks k i should say it does the job but just wondering Your main jet is clogged. The main jet is the bolt on the bottom of the bowl. You will need to drain the gas or shut off the gas first. There is a tiny pin hole in the threads that everyone seems to miss. It is only 1/2 mm and hard to see even when clean. cleaned the bolt and worked calming down sputter but when in the run triangle it starts acting up again it even stalls like not getting gas.then put at fast setting and it starts the problem sputter again but runs. when using the thrower are you supposed to use the fast setting when clearing snow. The main jet is still not clean. That tiny hole is still clogged which is what is causing the problem. And yes, the snowblower is made to be run at full speed. Refer to the picture below, it is the top hole indy is refering to, the bolt may not look exactly like the one pictured, I use the wire from a twist tie to clean it. Have a good one. Geo
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Hi, I'm cutting a new doorway in an old brick wall. My plan is to cut out a mortar joint and insert a steel angle lintel before removing the brick below. The mortar joint is about half inch and my steel is 1/4. Should I mix mortar or is there any type of caulk or adhesive I could use to secure the steel and fill the space? Thanks, Jack I have always used mortar to fill any gap around a lintel. Hopefully you have time to install the lintel and give it's mortar a few days to harden before you remove the brick below. The way you worded your post, it sounds to me like you think you can insert a 4 steel angle through a 1/2 wide mortar joint without doing any demo. I assume you know you are going to have to remove bricks in order to get the lintel in... Mortar slops out behind the bricks, so you will have to get in there and chip out some of that mortar if you expect to slip the wall angle up behind the existing brick. At least 2 bricks below each end of the wall angle will need to be removed and relaid in fresh mortar in order to have room to slip the lintel in. But doing it this way probably isn't best. Best way is probably to carefully demo a row or two of bricks above the lintel, chip the old mortar off of them, set the steel angle onto the existing bricks on each end, ensure the lentil is flashed (incorporated into the WRB) and then remortar and replace the bricks above the lintel. The bricks usually rest on top of the steel with no sealant between the two, since water needs to be able to escape. If weep holes or wicks are installed, it could all be caulked with sealant except for the weep holes. Here is a link to a diagram to help you envision it. I would agree with Xsleeper with on exception. After you install the flashing do not add sealant between the brick and the lintel flashing. You should add weeps but don't caulk any of the joint. It simply creates a dam to stop the water that gets into your wall (and it will get into the wall). You also need to make sure the flashing has end dams at each end of the lintel so the water does not simply travel sideways and end up entering your home from there. I would also be curious to know if this is a brick veneer on a wood frame house or a full masonry wall. In a brick veneer wall the brick is not structural. It is no different than vinyl siding, the wood frame is what holds up the house. If it is a full masonry wall then a simple angle lintel may not be enough to pick up the floor and/or roof loads that the masonry is carrying. Xsleeper - thanks for the diagram - I neglected to mention that this is an old storage building and I was planning on putting the lintel in with the angle on the outside. I was simply going to saw out the mortar and slide the angle in with one leg on the outside of the building. Aesthetics is not a concern. My thought was that this was within my capabilities and I wouldn't have to hire a mason...which I can't afford. Am I crazy? (be careful how you answer) A little background on the project... Yes, it's veneer. This is a 60-70 swimming pool building that I'm turning into a big storage building/garage. It was some mason's dream project. From inside to out...sandstone veneer, 4x8x16 block, 8x8x16 block, brick veneer. The building is 35 x 55' with a quarter inch steel pool, a tile surround, and a basement with 6 tiled showers. We're trying to add a 9' garage door in the rear. The pool has been floored over and we're going to put things in the building. The 8 block is doing the work of holding up the flat roof. if you install the vertical leg of the lintel on the outside of the wall you will need to counter-flash over it so the water running down the face of the wall does not get between the vertical leg and the brick veneer. If you have a 1/4 angle to support the brick and the opening is 9'-0 wide it could be undersized depending on how much brick (weight) you have resting on the lintel. The real strength of the lintel is not the steel thickness it is the height of the vertical leg. In general a 4x4 angle or something similar will probably not work long term for a 9'-0 opening. How do you intend to support the concrete block when you install the door? Depending on how the wall was built the 8 block and the 4 block may be bonded together to form a 12 thick bearing wall. Not sure what the details look like but I would not assume that the other masonry in the wall is not part of the load bearing assembly. Is the roof bearing on the wall that the door opening is going into? If the roof load has to be carried by the lintel you will greatly increase the total loading that the lintel in the bearing wall needs to carry. Thanks spiper... Yes, I'm aware of the counter flashing issue. That lintel only carries about 6 courses of brick and is not load bearing so I was told my angle size was adequate. The flat roofed building is about 12 feet tall with the steel roof trusses resting on the 8 block. The 4 block is inside the larger block and tied with the metal wall tie strips - there's perhaps a half inch space between the two. The small block stops at 10 feet, as does the sandstone that is inside that so I have no indication that they are load bearing. There was some type of drop ceiling used at some time down to that 10 foot level. My current working plan is to cut my mortar on the brick and install the steel lintel. Removed both short walls the sandstone and the 4 block on the inside. Remove one course of 8 block 10 ' wide over the 9 ' opening. Install a glu-lam 6x8 header. Remove the blocks and bricks underneath the headers. Have I confused you yet?? Side question - the block wall is very solid and the mortar is in great shape. In your experience, can that row of block be removed and left unsupported while we slide the header in, or do I need to make some provision (jacks or blocking) to support the hole? Jack Depending on the elevation, the one course of 8 block (and and maybe the course above) that you want to remove might be the lintel that spans over the 9' opening. Replacing it with wood is not ever good and would fall flat on its face since wood is not allowed by code to support bearing masonry because of the incompatibility and and the normal code requirements. That course of block is structural. You can probably do as you wish with both the interior and exterior veneers that usually do not carry any load and are there for appearance. Dick I agree with Dick. I would not support the block with wood not just due to code issues but because it is not advisable. A wide flange steel beam would be a better bet. The other thing to consider is that the majority of the load coming down that block is carried by the face shell of the block. In other words if you used a 4 wide beam it would only have the webs of the concrete block resting on it so it could be a problem. That is why a steel plate is often added to the top of the beam to allow for full bearing of the block. The upside is that a simple span could probably be done with a small beam of W8x10 or there abouts and weight wise it would probably be no heavier and maybe even lighter than the gluelam. A 10-0 long W8x10 would only weight 100 pounds. (the second number in 8x10 stands for the pounds per lineal foot so 10lbs x 10 feet). Of course my simple math did not include the steel plate but still 2-3 strong men could manhandle a beam of this type. It is also worth noting that the roof load issue still has to be determined to make sure the beam is properly sized. As for the shoring requirements; this also depends on the roof load issue but I would think that you could slip/wedge some of the removed 4 thick block into the wall as temporary bracing, slide the new beam in from one side halfway thru the opening, remove the 4 thick block and continue to slide the beam into place. Of course this is not guarnteed and I assume ZERO responsibility but I have seen it done many times. Thanks...I'm rethinking the wooden header, although it will be either 6 inches wide or perhaps 7.5. I was told that structurally 4 - 2x8's would do. I hadn't thought of the steel plate but can see the utility of that. I called to see about an 8 inch I beam and was offered an 8 x 28. It was 6.5 in width. It cost $200 and would obviously require more friends or a stronger wife than an 8 x 10. Perhaps I need to shop a bit more. Thanks for the shoring thoughts, also. I had the same thing in mind, just didn't know if that's how it is done. Jack I would use props every 3 ft with needles through the wall as shown here.
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Hi, I'm looking to buy an install a GE Simon XT system from FrontPoint (Alarm.com really) and as I have been doing my research, I have found some inconsistencies on the type of sensors supported by this system. Some websites I've seen mention some sensors that are compatible with it and other websites do not mention those at all. I'm looking for an extensive/definitive list of accessories/sensors that are really supported by this system. I found a small list in the GE datasheet for the XT but it is a bit short compared to what I see around the internet. Also, can anybody provide some insight on this? All related to GE sensors. - Glass break sensors (which one is better?) NX488-60-873-95 or NX487-60-834-95 - Motion sensors (What is the difference between) 60-703-95 (crystal motion sensor) and 60-511-02-95 or 60-511-01-95 - Are there any GE Pet safe motion sensors I can use with the XT that support pets over 40 pounds. I have two dogs (30 lbs beagles) and I'm told that the 40 lbs sensor will not work if both dogs are on the same room. - Can other wireless sensors (non GE) work with this system? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Ed Originally Posted by mojon Hi, I'm looking to buy an install a GE Simon XT system from FrontPoint (Alarm.com really) and as I have been doing my research, I have found some inconsistencies on the type of sensors supported by this system. Some websites I've seen mention some sensors that are compatible with it and other websites do not mention those at all. I'm looking for an extensive/definitive list of accessories/sensors that are really supported by this system. I found a small list in the GE datasheet for the XT but it is a bit short compared to what I see around the internet. Also, can anybody provide some insight on this? All related to GE sensors. - Glass break sensors (which one is better?) NX488-60-873-95 or NX487-60-834-95 - Motion sensors (What is the difference between) 60-703-95 (crystal motion sensor) and 60-511-02-95 or 60-511-01-95 - Are there any GE Pet safe motion sensors I can use with the XT that support pets over 40 pounds. I have two dogs (30 lbs beagles) and I'm told that the 40 lbs sensor will not work if both dogs are on the same room. - Can other wireless sensors (non GE) work with this system? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Ed Everything works on the XT EXCEPT dialogue products (Wireless dialer, 2 way talking touchpad, and RF thermostat)...These are coming, the talking touchpad will be first (non dialogue). I'm not going to go digging for part numbers, but I believe you are comparing SAW VS Crystal motions above...main differences between the two are battery (alkaline VS lithium), and you'll see a bit of a bump in range on the crystal version (nothing to lose any sleep over)...Guts are the same unless you are comparing pet immune vs non-pet immune. Nothing pet immune for those size dogs in the RF variety... Must use 319.5 MhZ wireless (GE) Does anyone know if the SimonXT will control Smart Remote light modules? If so, do I still need the line carrier power adapter? Thanks! Nope, Simon 3 only... Have to use X-10 on the XT Thanks for the quick response GEGUY. I really appreciate the help. Couple of questions though. 1. When you say everything, I assume you mean GE sensors and not overall wireless sensors from other companies as well. Right? 2. What do you mean by Must use 319.5 MhZ wireless (GE). Is this related to motion sensors? 3. Which one of these two sensors do you think will work better in detecting glass breaks: NX488 GE Wireless ShatterPro Glassbreak Sensor (Sold by FrontPoint) or NX487 GE, ITI, Caddx Wireless Glassbreak Sensor (Dual tech sound sensor) (Not provided by FrontPoint) Again, thanks for the quick response. Regards, Ed Yes, all Ge wireless devices will work except the ones previously mentioned... 319.5 is the radio frequency used...can't use brand X Go with the 488...for a variety of reasons! Thanks GEGuy. Can I ask the most important reasons why not go with the NX487? Also, do you (or anybody else reading this post for that matter) know how would I go about testing a glass break sensor? Short of breaking a glass in front of it? I know GE makes a tester but is there a simpler way of doing this without buying the tester? Regards Ed Some glass breaks have a specific clap test function (look at the install sheet for the device). I often use a large ring of keys, or a empty softdrink can with a handful of pennies. In either case, you have to shake pretty aggressively. Originally Posted by mojon Thanks GEGuy. Can I ask the most important reasons why not go with the NX487? Also, do you (or anybody else reading this post for that matter) know how would I go about testing a glass break sensor? Short of breaking a glass in front of it? I know GE makes a tester but is there a simpler way of doing this without buying the tester? Regards Ed The 487 is older technology, prone to more false alarms...Shatterpro series is tough to beat! Thanks all for the comments. I went ahead and signed up with FrontPoint Solutions. The best features (at least for my needs) I could find. I just got the Simon XT system today and will be testing it tomorrow. I'll post any of my findings. Won't be able to test the video until Monday though (no internet yet in my new place, damn comcast ) By the way GEGuy, I went with the Shatter Pro glass sensor. Thanks for the recommendation. Later, Ed Originally Posted by GEGUY Everything works on the XT EXCEPT dialogue products (Wireless dialer, 2 way talking touchpad, and RF thermostat)...These are coming, the talking touchpad will be first (non dialogue). I'm not going to go digging for part numbers, but I believe you are comparing SAW VS Crystal motions above...main differences between the two are battery (alkaline VS lithium), and you'll see a bit of a bump in range on the crystal version (nothing to lose any sleep over)...Guts are the same unless you are comparing pet immune vs non-pet immune. Nothing pet immune for those size dogs in the RF variety... Must use 319.5 MhZ wireless (GE) I REALLY wish they'd hurry up on the 2 way talking touchpad. I have my control panel in the master bedroom upstairs and it's a pain with just the keyfobs (not 100% sure that the system is armed or disarmed). Originally Posted by nickdiy I REALLY wish they'd hurry up on the 2 way talking touchpad. I have my control panel in the master bedroom upstairs and it's a pain with just the keyfobs (not 100% sure that the system is armed or disarmed). There are other (cheaper) solutions to this problem if you are NOT using the alarm.com radio... Get the X-10 Simon 3 transformer....you could then use the X-10 powerhorn siren(s) and have it chirp the arming level when you disarm....you can also have X-10 lights flash the arming level as well Originally Posted by mojon Hi, I'm looking to buy an install a GE Simon XT system from FrontPoint (Alarm.com really) and as I have been doing my research, I have found some inconsistencies on the type of sensors supported by this system. Some websites I've seen mention some sensors that are compatible with it and other websites do not mention those at all. I'm looking for an extensive/definitive list of accessories/sensors that are really supported by this system. I found a small list in the GE datasheet for the XT but it is a bit short compared to what I see around the internet. Also, can anybody provide some insight on this? All related to GE sensors. - Glass break sensors (which one is better?) NX488-60-873-95 or NX487-60-834-95 - Motion sensors (What is the difference between) 60-703-95 (crystal motion sensor) and 60-511-02-95 or 60-511-01-95 - Are there any GE Pet safe motion sensors I can use with the XT that support pets over 40 pounds. I have two dogs (30 lbs beagles) and I'm told that the 40 lbs sensor will not work if both dogs are on the same room. - Can other wireless sensors (non GE) work with this system? Any help will be greatly appreciated. Regards, Ed Here's a link that might help some: Home Security Questions and Answers I'm trying to marry several systems including a SmartSecurity and a Simon XT and I believe all the sensors will work okay; just as l;ong as they are on the same frequency. As far as the PIR's go, they detect a mass in motion plus heat, so if your dogs were close together the PIR would pretty surely go off. If they were on opposite sides of the room, who knows. If it were me, I'd not use PIR's where I have petrs anyway, unless I could shield the beam from pet range and set it so it would monitor above their jumping height. Just my preference. Lots of Simon XT's on eBay right now at good prices. Sensors are not priced well there; better off at the alarm dealers I guess.
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I have a Trace (now Xantrex) Legend 1512 inverter which stopped working. I sent it to an authorized repair place and was told it would cost almost $1000 to repair and was prompted to purchase a new inverter. I asked them to kindly return my unit. If you think you could fix my inverter, please let me know, and I will post more specifics. Mike You should probably post specifics just so we have some idea what the scope of the problem is. I wouldn't get your hopes up too high in any case, most of the components inside a unit like that aren't readily swappable. I seriously doubt they want to charge you $1000 to fix a bad switch or something of that scale. That's the one big trouble with solid state, trying to troubleshoot and replace individual components on a board with thousands of soldered-on parts costs mroe in time/labor than it does to build a new one. Thanks for taking the time to reply Mukansamonkey. What you have to say makes a lot of sense to me. Perhaps the tech guy at the authorized repair place should have started with that too. Here's the situation: My wife and I had a solar/wind hybrid system installed in our 34' Avion travel trailer in 1999, which included a Trace Legend Inverter (model # L1512SB B20D). Here's a link to download a pdf of the tech specs: www.xantrex.com/web/id/302/docserve.asp We lived in the trailer full time for a couple of years and then came off the road. We have used the RV off and on since then. The remote panel (RC8) for the inverter began showing an error message. The charger in the inverter still worked, but the unit would not inverter. The troubleshooting diagnostic on the Xantrex website suggested performing a DC Reset. We hired an electrician that does solar installs to come and help us. The reset involved disconnecting the positive battery cable from the inverter and reconnecting it. (We have 2 Lifeline AGM GPL-4D batteries.) This didn't fix the problem, so the electrician advised returning the unit for repair. I picked the closest repair place and sent it off. I recieved an email with the following: Repair Inverter Charger Model L1512 SB B20D Findings: Test as received reveals intermittent operation. Troubleshooting reveals faulty main brd. Unit considered beyond economical repair. Replacement suggestions: Xantrex Freedom 458 20-12 S/D 2000 Watt, 100 Amp Charger $920 Xantrex Freedom basic remote $90 I responded, seeking more information. I have condensed the repair techs comments from several emails below: Beyond economical repair means that repairing it will cost more than an equivalent replacement. Please be aware this model is not available new anymore. The cost for repairing this is unit will be $893 plus shipping (please allow four weeks for the necessary parts). As for the faults the faulty Main Board is exhibiting, the unit is behaving intermittently and this makes troubleshooting very difficult and time consuming. I asked for an itemized breakdown of the $893 and a description of intermittent. He replied: The replacement board from the factory for this unit is $768. Labor would be $125. Yes sometimes it works...most of the time it doesn't. FYI: I have repaired Xantrex freedom 458 Model 81-2022-12 which is very similar to your unit (functionally) for $550. It comes with a 90 day warranty. Your old remote will not work with this unit . A new remote is $100. You old remote interface cord will work with the new remote My sense from these emails is that they didn't even open the unit up...just plugged it in to see if it would work, as troubleshooting is very difficult and time consuming. So I asked to have the unit returned. I've been exploring our options for replacement and am open to that possibility. However, still looking for an independent repair person that might want to take a look inside and see what's going on. Maybe some bug crawled inside and is sitting across some circuitry. Just yesterday morning the water pump from the well in our old farm house quit working. A mole had crawled up inside the plastic housing of the electrical box and got zapped. As soon as I removed the carcass, the pump fired back up. You just never know. Wish I had more info to offer, but that's what I know. Thanks again, Mike They would not trouble shoot the board down to component level. It would be standard practice to determine which board is bad and replace the entire PCB. They have done that. Complex printed circuit boards are no longer tested by hand. Automatic Test Equipment (ATE) is used. When the boards are manufactured, the board is power up and tested automatically. The tests determine the bad part, and it can be replaced. Some time after a particular board is no longer manufactured, the test equipment is disposed (recycled, used for other tests, etc.). It is not economically feasible to install the ATE at each and every repair facility, and so this is not done. Aside from the fact that the equipment takes a lot of space, it is also expensive. For this reason, the standard procedure is to replace an entire board or even an entire assembly when something goes bad. In your case, the repair facility has determined the main board is bad, and has given you an estimated repair cost. They have also advised you that it would be more cost effective to replace the unit. You may very well eventually find someone who is willing to work on this unit and repair it, if you look long enough. Or you may keep looking and never find anyone. That's half the battle. Once the problem is identified it can be repaired. However, if it is a bad component then a replacement has to be found, purchased and installed. I think at this point if it were my item I would replace it. Many thanks for taking the time to explain in detail how the industry works. This is a great forum and I've learned a ton already. That's the beauty of the internet. Places like this have gotten me through some tight spots. I've been looking at alternative units. The tech just keeps getting more mind boggling...no wonder nothing is tested by hand anymore. I'll keep looking for a fix it guy too. Nice to have a back up. Thanks again. Mike Hey, I got a trace inverter, I got a problem with it so I pulled it out and took it in, same story, $900 to replace the motherboard, better to buy a $3500 new one. Well I thought that was a load of bull so I took it to this electronics guy. Here is what he found. Faulty chip, a bit of a damaged trace. He got me a new chip, repaired the trace, all told it took a few days and cost me a whopping $60. Up and running for over a year. People who own these units are being looted for repairs. The world is made up of parts folks, these are simple repairs for electronics guys but the people who deal in trace repairs are scalping the owners. It's not a scam, that's how 'authorized repair centers' work for ANY company. Because they don't have the automated test equipment, they would have to go through the board circuit-by-circuit to determine where the faulty component(s) are. That is a MONSTROUSLY labor intensive method, and you can bet your @$$ if they did it that way you'd be complaining about the $800 in labor to replace a $7 part. That's why they test the board as a whole, and if it fails it is replaced as a whole. Honestly the guy you took it to undercharged you big time. Maybe the root problem was easy to spot visually, maybe it's a known issue that burns the same parts in all cases, maybe he got lucky and it was the first circuit he tested, maybe he was an old timer who still thinks gas costs 19 cents a gallon. But there's no way I'm going to blindly comb over a microcontrolled circuit board for a stranger for $60. That kind of work is $100 an hour. You also have to consider that the company that does the repair will be facing a multimillion dollar lawsuit if their repaired product burns down a house with a family sleeping inside. The UL certification only covers the original manufactured product. There is no way to know if the repair brings the equipment back up to the original standard. It's simply not worth the risk to a legitimate business to replace individual components instead of listed assemblies. Yes it's more expensive that way, but the added expense reflects the confidence in the fix. The above posters are correct. In fact most of these techs at these service centers don't even know check components. They are trained check circuit boards which usually involves plugging them into a proprietary go - no go tester. If the light is green it's good. If it's red it's not. No skill. No troubleshooting. It's cheaper for the company to hire someone to test electronics in this manner than to hire an actual tech that can troubleshoot and replace bad components.
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I have a 3 zone forced air system. The heat works as it should. Each zone works independently as it should. With the heat there is no issue at all. I have each zone wired as below with the exception of jumping RH to RC. In the winter I do not have this jumper in place for heat use. With the air conditioning there is a problem. The problem is that I have to turn on the AC by using the master thermostat. Neither of the secondary thermostats have any affect when used. When I call for AC with the Master Thermostat it comes on as it should however it blows through all 3 zones. The secondary thermostats do not work to turn on or off the AC unit outside, nor do they open or close the air dampers to their respective zones. So if I want AC I have to cool my whole house rather than just one zone. I have the jumpers from RH to RC in place simply because it is necessary to have RC activated to run the AC. I have jumped RH to RC on all 3 thermostats as well as only on the master. This makes no difference in function. As long as the RC is jumped from RH or directly hooked to the white wire it functions as described above. Additionally all thermostats are set to cool and auto fan. ( I have tried every combination of settings, but am open to trying anything). All I want is for the AC to work correctly and independently like the heat does in each zone. Any suggestions are greatly appreciated. Below are the wirings I have on each thermostat as well as the wiring on the control panel at the furnace. All thermostats are Ritetemp 511 programmable model 8022. and Control panel at furnace is Trol - a- Temp Model MABS II. Master thermostat: RH = White - RH is also jumped to RC W = Blue Y = Red G = Green B = Brown O = Yellow Secondary thermostat family room: RH = Blue - RH is also jumped to RC W = White Y = Red G = open B = open O = open A= open C = open Secondary Thermostat Upstairs: RH = Blue - RH is also jumped to RC W = White Y = Red G = open B = open O = open A= open C = open CONTROL UNIT AT FURNACE Trol - a- Temp Model MABS II Y2 - open Y1 - red O - open G2 - open G1- red RC - red RH - red B- open W2 - open W1- white E - open Change over control: Cool (O1) = yellow (labeled 'control') Fan (G1) = Green (labeled 'control') Heat (B1) = Red (not from same group of wires that is labeled ' control') Emergency heat (E1) = open 24 v. 40.v.a. (2) = Red (not from same group of wires that is labeled ' control') Transformer (1) = White (not from same group of wires that is labeled ' control') Zone 1: In O position ( choice for switch is 'O' or 'C') T8 = open T7 = open T6 = Red (labeled 'control') T5 = White (labeled 'control') T4= Blue (labeled 'control') M6= Blue M4= White M1=Red Zone 2: In O position ( choice for switch is 'O' or 'C') T8 = open T7 = open T6 = Red T5 = White T4= Blue M6= Blue M4= White M1=Red Zone 3: In O position ( choice for switch is 'O' or 'C') T8 = open T7 = open T6 = Red T5 = White T4= Blue M6= Blue M4= White M1=Red Thanks in advance for any and all help. Damon http://customer.honeywell.com/techli...0s/68-0101.pdf Just coloring in the diagram as you have posted, it looks like zone 2 and zone 3 stats are wired incorrectly. You have blue and white crossed. W = blue, R = white, and Y = red. Houston, It still is not working correctly. I tried switching the blue and white wires on stats as you suggested, but this made no difference. the secondary stats still will not control damper / acuators or turn on /off the AC unit out side. the problem still exists as originally described. Any other suggestions? Thanks again! Damon Zone 1 stat controls the system mode. Turn off all stats (mode off, fan off) and measure G to 1 and G to 2 at the changeover control (zone 1 stat connections to control board). The (1-G, 2-G) combination that did not show 24VAC will determine C (common). I'd guess terminal 2 is C but this should be proven. Measure O to C with zone 1 stat in cool mode but no demand. (We want 24VAC) Measure zone2 T6 to C when zone 1 is in cool mode but has no demand (cool 85) and zone 2 has a cool demand (cool 65). (We want 24VAC) Is this a twenty year old zone control board? I'm off to work. Be back in 12 hours... Houston, Ok. I performed the tests you requested in two ways. First way with my original wiring on the stats and then I performed the tests again with your wiring suggestion of switching the blue and white wires. And YES this is approximatelty 20 years old (house built in 1992 and this is original to the house as far as I know)Here are the results of the tests: With Houston's suggested wiring: All stats OFF (mode off, fan auto -only chioice is on or auto) and measured G to 1 and G to 2 at the changeover control RESULT - G to 1 = 0 volts and G to 2 = 24 Volts The (1-G, 2-G) combination that did not show 24VAC will determine C (common). RESULT - G to 1 is the Common Measure O to C with zone 1 stat in cool mode but no demand. (We want 24VAC)RESULT - 01 to C = 0 volts (01 is labeled cool on change over control) OR 0 to C =24 volts (0 in this case is from the far left on your diagram underthe y1 where compressor contractor is attached) Measure zone2 T6 to C when zone 1 is in cool mode but has no demand (cool 85) and zone 2 has a cool demand (cool 65). (We want 24VAC) RESULT - This test shows 0 volts. So not what you were hoping for, but I hope that it tells us something..... Now I also tried these exact same tests with my original wiring with all of the same results except for one ------ Measure O to C with zone 1 stat in cool mode but no demand. (We want 24VAC) in this case with my original wiring RESULTS - 01 to C = 24 volts (01 is labeled cool on change over control) all other results were indenticle to the above. Ok I am hoping that this gives us something to go on because I am at a loss. Thanks again! Damon Oh it is 95 degrees today too....... Any help would be great!!!!! Damon Ok I just retested to be sure and came up with the results below they vary slightly from the first testing and I believe this one is the correct and accurate test results. I am using Houston's wiring suggestions. All stats OFF (mode off, fan auto -only chioice is on or auto) and measured G to 1 and G to 2 at the changeover control RESULT - G to 1 = 0 volts and G to 2 = 24 Volts The (1-G, 2-G) combination that did not show 24VAC will determine C (common). RESULT - G to 1 is the Common Measure O to C with zone 1 stat in cool mode but no demand. (We want 24VAC)RESULT - 01 to C = 24 volts (01 is labeled cool on change over control) OR 0 to C = 0 volts (0 in this case is from the far left on your diagram underthe y1 where compressor contractor is attached) Measure zone2 T6 to C when zone 1 is in cool mode but has no demand (cool 85) and zone 2 has a cool demand (cool 65). (We want 24VAC) RESULT - This test shows 0 volts. So not what you were hoping for, but I hope that it tells us something..... Damon O1 to C is the test that I wanted. 24VAC is a good reading. 0 VAC between T6 and C means no cooling demand from stat. Do we have 24 VAC between zone 2 (T5 to C) indicating that we are supplying 24 VAC to the stat. Zone 2 3 stat functions: R = 24 VAC Y = cooling W = heating Zone 2 T5 to C = 0 volts (tested with master on and calling for cool, zone 2 on but not calling for cool)... If its not getting the voltage what do I do? is there a way to jump it or something? Damon Page 22 in your manual speaks of ... ONE ZONE COOLING: ON - Disables zone control in cooling. OFF - Allows zone control in cooling. Houston, YOU DID IT!!!!!!! That was it, The switch. Thank you so much for your help. I hope I will be able to help someone else in return. This heating and cooling system has been a pain since the day I bought the house and this was the very last thing I needed to sort out as far as the heating and cooling goes........This fix has been years in the making. Thanks again!!!!! Damon That's great news. I'm happy to have helped.Beer 4U2
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I have to notch out my ceiling under the ceiling joists to run some wires for recessed lights. It's a popcorn ceiling and I'm not sure what the most efficient way to restore the popcorn to the repaired sites is. Can someone please advise me on this? Thanx Jim Popcorn is applied using a compressor powered hopper gun. There are 3 different sizes of popcorn; fine, medium and coarse. Popcorn repairs look best if you feather them out over a wide area. It's messy so you need to cover up everything! The ceiling might need to be repainted to make the repair blend in better. They also sell popcorn spray in an aerosol can. Just to clarify - you're not notching the joists themselves, right? Thank you for your replies. Yes mitch I'm notching out the joists so I can run the wires. Jim Notching floor/ceiling joists is frowned upon because it weakens the joist. It's better to drill a hole in the middle of the joist although that does mean a bigger patch job. Yep, that's what I thought and Mark is right - drill holes through the middle 1/3 of the joist (not the entire 1/3 just within it) and run your wires through the holes. That's what I thought. I will drill holes instead of notching. Thanx Jim I just repaired my ceiling and tried the aerosol kind and it worked pretty good, but it only covers a small area and was messy. So I added dry granules to my paint instead because I had a few patches that needed repairing and didn't want the mess of spraying it on with the hopper. It worked good and wasn't messy when I sponged it on rather than roll it. Thanks for that idea MissesP. I will keep that in mind. Jim Hello, I would like to ask for any suggestions about the following problem I am having with my popcorn ceiling. I recently painted my popcorn ceiling for the first time (I used an oil based primer and then a water based ceiling paint) and some of the ceiling texture has started to flake off (please see attached photo). This has happened around the light fixture only. The drywall is attached to the texture that is coming off. Underneath is a concrete slab (I live in a condominium). Is it possible to repair this effectively without cutting out a section of the ceiling and replacing it? This is my first time painting, and I am definitely not capable of replacing drywall, especially surrounding a light fixture and on the ceiling. I was considering removing the parts which are falling off and using the Homex popcorn ceiling patch (in the tube) to fill these parts in. I am not sure if this will adhere to concrete. Any help would be much appreciated. I am also not sure why this part of the ceiling is coming off in the first place. Perhaps I saturated it with too much paint? Thank you for any help! Welcome to the forums lavieestbelle! It almost looks like a moisture problem. Has there ever been any plumbing leaks above it? Is the ceiling concrete? or is it furred out with drywall installed to the furring strips? Thank you so much for the quick reply marksr and the welcome! So, the ceiling is concrete. I think that there might have been drywall and then the texture, as there are no furring strips (which are wood strips right?). Or maybe the popcorn is applied directly to concrete? Basically, there is concrete directly underneath the part that is falling off. Also, there have been no leaks that I know of. The building is 8 years old and I've been living here for 3 years. I just went and took another close look at the ceiling and I noticed that this cracking is happening in some other areas although it's not falling off like it is around the light fixture. I'm seeing this cracking around the fire alarm speaker and near the window. I should mention this too: I really loaded the paint on the ceiling, since I was having trouble getting it to look even. In total I put 2 coats of oil primer and around 3 coats of latex ceiling paint. Thanks again for your help! I'm a little worried that I may have to completely scrape the whole ceiling and re-do it... Often the ceiling texture is applied directly to the concrete although installing furring strips and drywall would look a little nicer and probably help with sound transfer. Often a trained eye can tell by looking at the ceiling, not sure if you can by pictures though I couldn't imagine painting the ceiling a total of 5 times That makes my neck ache just thinking about it It might be you painted the ceiling too good. It's possible there is a small amount of moisture passing thru the ceiling and the paint has sealed the ceiling to the extent that the moisture is looking for another spot for it's escape. The electrical boxes might be their new concentrated path. Don't know that I can come up with a better solution than to scrape, repair, prime/paint and watch Thank you again for the suggestions and help . I realized that there is drywall there too, but it's definitely come off with the textured ceiling. My friend also recommended that I scrape/remove the affected areas, apply drywall compound, and then I can apply the textured ceiling repair compound, oil primer and finally the ceiling paint. Does this sound about right? Just wondering though - do most dryall compounds (not sure if this is the correct term) adhere to concrete? Well, at least I learned not to overpaint... Most drywall products including texture will bond to masonry but regular joint compound and most textures are water soluble and if the concrete absorbs and releases any moisture it can degrade the drywall mud. Also there is a limit to how thick regular j/c can be applied. For thick applications it's better to use a setting compound like Durabond. Setting compounds dry quickly by chemical reaction and are not water soluble. Thank you so much for the suggestion and all the help and I will definitely look into purchasing the Durabond product that you recommended. Cheers! Not all home/paint stores sell Durabond but most do sell setting compounds, another popular brand is EasySand ....... but none of the setting compounds sand as easy as regular j/c so it pays to apply it neatly. They come in different setting times. I'm partial to the 20 minute mud but the 45 or even 90 minute mud is more diy friendly. After it's mixed, any unused mud needs to be discarded and the tools cleaned up - it dries hard!
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I got a plan for radiator covers from doityourself.com but I am not sure where to purchase the decorative screen that goes on the boxes (covers). There is a salvage yard that carries them but I would like to save the hassle and buy them new. Where can I get my hands on some metal screen? Is it expensive? Somebody manufactures it because the radiator cover manufacturers get it from somewhere. Thanks, gretchen Rockler carries decorative mesh and woven brass, intended in their mind for cabinet doors. It would work equally well in your application. Look them over at http://www.rockler.com They offer a free catalog of their complete line. Hi, I don't know what the size of your cabinet is going to be. I have seen in hardware stores displays of decoratively perforated sheet metal, maybe 30 x 30 or 36 x 36. Here is a site you can get some info from. www.mcmaster-carr.com In the products tab search box type in perforated metal Click on the find button....it takes a few seconds to bring up the list. when it appears, scroll down to ....perforated metal and click on it. A page will appear...perforated metal. Go over and click on the heading metal and thermoplastic perforated sheets. This will bring up the said sheet, and you will see an oval ...catalog pages, click on it. Appearing now is an informative sheet for you. If you want the screen just do the same procedure. Most of the radiator screens I've seen have used the perforated sheet. You can also try.....expanded metal. Another suggestion is to ask some metal suppliers around your area. They might be able to help you out in some way. good luck, Trent You can buy the decorative aluminum metal panels at Home Depot. I just made some radiator covers last week. They come in various designs in brass and silver. They are around $15 for a 3'x3' sheet. good luck, toolbelt I plan to build a few covers but these aluminum panels have gotten ridiculously expensive. I built one for an out of the way area with 1/4 hardware cloth painted white but I'm not crazy about the look. 1/8 might look better but it's not locally available. Any other reasonably priced ideas for screen material?
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A few months ago, I noticed that when the boiler kicked on, it was much louder than usual. Then, about 10 days ago, the CO2 detector in the boiler room went off during the night. I called the gas company first and had them check for leaks. They didn't find a problem so we had the repairman come out. He thoroughly cleaned and examined the unit and also cleaned the flue/chimney. Things seemed ok until today, a week later, when suddenly the CO2 detector went off again. What could the problem be? The boiler sits in a room in our basement and there are three open wall vents going into the room. Nothing has changed around the house that would cause a decrease in the amount of fresh air available to the boiler room. The repairman said that there is the correct amount of pressure going to the unit so he doesn't think it's the gas valve. I'm desperate for any other suggestions as to what the problem might be. We already ran up several hundred $$ in repair costs (but that's a whole other story) and don't want to pay the plumbing company more money only to have them not be able to find and fix the problem. Thanks for any help you can provide. Whats the model # of the boiler? Did the repairman remove the burners and clean them? Did he remove the flue and stick a bristle brush to clean between the sections? Mike NJ Have there been any hints from these repair people to the effect of: Well, it's time for a newer more efficient boiler, etc ? I'm wondering if they perhaps have a vested interest in NOT fixing it? lawrosa - I'll try and get the model number. I'll have to find a magnifying class in order to read it NJ Trooper - so far the repairman hasn't hinted at that. The tech from the gas company said that it appears to be in Ok condition for it's age. My husband asked if we should think about getting a more efficient boiler and he replied that it probably wouldn't pay to do so. Take some pics if you can. Always good to see it. Post to a free site like photobucket the post the link to those pics here. Mike NJ Good... sounds like they are being honest with you! That's a rare treat these days! [IMG][/IMG] Here is a photo of the boiler. The model number is HC 145 It seems that there is no CO2 detected until the boiler has been running for awhile. If its totally cold, it takes about an 1 1/2 hours. If its warm, it takes about 15 minutes. It's been as high as 38ppm but then we shut it off. Using smoke, we have tested both the draft from the boiler and the hot water tank and it seems to be OK (both hook into the same flue). OK. Similar to my boiler. cast iron burners like mine, nice. Those burners should be removed and the boiler cleaned properly. The draft hood of the boiler needs to be removed. Then a long pipe cleaner type brush needs to be inserted between the sections. Then thoroughly vacuumed. Make sure the burners go back together properly. Not liking the gas line going directly in the top of the gas valve with no drip tee. This was common install on these and often sediment gets inside the gas valve which may cause CO issues. Also the flue shares the water heater is OK if all is sized correctly. If masonary chiminey I would absolutly check for tiles that may have fallen and blocking the vent passage. Same water heater? Proper Y connection to the main vent and not some homemade tee? Also those air shutters on the front of the two round burners should be open all the way. I cant tell by the pic if one is closed or not. More pics at various angles is preferred. Also how old is the CO detector? They need replacement like every 5 yrs. I would suggest its not really something to mess with and you should pay a plumber with a combustion analyser to clean and test the levels properly. If your repair man did not do this he is doing you an injustice. You know the old saying you can wake up dead !!! Mike NJ We opened them both up - they weren't open all the way this is the top of the gasline - is this what you mean by it should have a drip tee? here is the set up for the water heater and boiler ducting. Thanks so much for helping us out. We really appreciate it. Last week when the plumbers came over they took it all apart and thorroughly cleaned the boiler and the chimney (there was some debris in the chimney which they cleaned out). So, we turned it back on after opening the air shutters. !5 minutes later the CO2 was reading 35. Yeah not likeing that tee for the water heater. Is that duct tape on one of the joints...uggg!. Your reall need a combustion analysis done. The boiler needs to be under 100 ppm I believe. Next water heater you need a low boy so it can be hooked up with a proper Y and proper pitch. Could it be the CO is back drafting through the water heater flue or the water heater itself? This is where a combustion test will find the cause. Saftey should be your first priority. espeacially with children. Low levels of CO cause developmental issues from my understanding. Mike NJ We just put the duct tape on it yesterday because we noticed the connection wasn't sealed. Just a temporary fix until we get some metal tape today. As for the water heater vent - are you saying that the vent pipe from the water heater should not be straight across like it is? Fortunately, we don't have any kids in the house and we aren't running the boiler except to test it after we tweak something. Can you be more specific about the combustion test and the boiler being under 100ppm? I don't think the plumbers did a combustion test - I'll find out. The thing that I don't understand is we have had this setup this way for over three years - why would it suddenly start acting up? The CO2 detector we had in the room is about 2-3 years old. We did go out an buy a CO2 monitor with a digital read out so we could track the high and lows. Where the water heater connects to the flue for the boiler needs to be a Y and not a homemade fitting like you have. A combustion test has a snuffer they insert in a drilled hole before the draqft hood and after. They can tell what appliance has high CO levels. Oxygen to fuel ratios, CO2 levels ect... And possibly find the corrective action in the process. Mike NJ As far as we know, the water heater connection has always been this way. The plumbers put in a new water heater when we remodeled (about 3 1/2 years ago) but they just used the existing connection. Right now, the water heater is running and the boiler isn't and there is no detectable CO reading. So, are you saying that we should have a Y connection that is the same size pipe as the rest of the pipe? What do you think it will cost to do a combustion test? Where we live we only have two options for boiler repairmen and, seems to me anyway, things always cost WAY more than it seems like they should. Thanks again, Kathy What do you think it will cost to do a combustion test? Where we live we only have two options for boiler repairmen and, seems to me anyway, things always cost WAY more than it seems like they should. Hmm whats your life worth??? IDK say $200-$300 Water heater should be 4 flue. Then the Connection where it connects in the main flue should be, looks like to be a 6x5x4 Y. Here is what a combustion analyser will read. I had a 280 co reading on my old hydrotherm. They cleaned it and got it down the above. I did not believe them and had a independent person come out to check. Needs to read under 100 ppm. I am at 7 ppm. ( Although I still dont believe it...LOL) My 1984 Hydrotherm with powerpile. Mike NJ We opened them both up - they weren't open all the way So, we turned it back on after opening the air shutters. !5 minutes later the CO2 was reading 35. WHOA! back the truck up! You absolutely should NOT have touched those air shutters! Those are to be adjusted only when one has a COMBUSTION ANALYZER to set them properly. They are not 'supposed' to be 'open all the way' ! They are to be adjusted to provide the proper air to fuel ratio for proper combustion. They can NOT be adjusted 'by eye'! To quote a wise man: Hmm whats your life worth??? why would it suddenly start acting up? Stuff happens. I'm also nervous about the proximity of those flue pipes to combustible materials. By code, there is supposed to be EIGHTEEN INCHES of clearance from a flue pipe to any combustibles. Shame on the person that did that work. That's just plain reckless. Where does that flue pipe go after it passes through that wall? Yeah those air shutters were halfway previously. You can easily turn them back if you like. But given servicing and adjustment practices in years past, it probably wasn't important to adjust the air shutters and more then often they were opened, no? Which the fully-open setting was probably always used, but I am sure it will be debated. If it was an erroneous setting, it erred on the side of caution I would think. Isnt it benificial with the absence of measurement equipment? The air shutters probably should be adjusted but I have yet to see techs adjust them on gas boilers during service. Possibly condensation issues or soot. What type of heat emmiters? rads, baseboard? Mike NJ Hey- thought I'd let you know that we might have a diagnosis - but unfortunately it might mean we have to get a new boiler. I talked with a guy who's been working on them for 50+ years. As soon as I got CO2 out of my mouth he told me he knew exactly what the problem is. Seems there are rope gaskets in between the cast iron sections. He said they have probably deteriorated and that it would probably cost as much as a new one to repair. Any thoughts? Oh, by the way, we did reset the air shutters once we realized opening them up didn't change anything. So, if we do have to get a new boiler - any thoughts on switching from gas to electric? Where we live electricity is a bit cheaper than gas - but then there is no guarantee it will stay that way. He said they have probably deteriorated and that it would probably cost as much as a new one to repair. Any thoughts? I wonder if the seams were pumped full of high temp silicone if it would buy some time. Peter any thoughts on switching from gas to electric? Where we live electricity is a bit than gas - wow electricity is 15 cents a kilowatt around here. How much is it there? Is there hydro generation that keeps the price down? The appeal of electric is the near 100% efficency. Plus it is reliable with very few parts to go wrong. Peter Where does that flue pipe go after it passes through that wall? I'd still like to know the answer to this question. When the guys took down the flue pipe to clean it (you did say they did that, right?) Did they properly seal the connection into the chimney? I mean, there must be a chimney on the other side of that wall, right? A combustion test is still in order here... if your boiler is producing thousands of ppm of CO (not co2 by the way) then there is something wrong with the combustion! If they are unable to lower the CO levels, it may lend some evidence that too much excess air is coming into the system through leaks in the boiler and such. You can GUESS all you want, it's your home, and your life. Peter - we get our electricity from a co-op (which buys the power from the Bonneville Power Admin) and yes, it's hydro. We pay about 7.8 cents a kWh. NJ Trooper - didn't mean to ignore you about the pipe - just forgot to answer in my last post. The pipe goes into a chimney on the other side of the wall. So, by combustibles, are you referring to the floor joists and other exposed wood? If so, how do we correct that? I asked the plumber about a combustion test and he said we didn't need one and talked about atmospheric boiler vs sealed boiler. I don't really understand what he meant by that. I asked the plumber about a combustion test and he said we didn't need one and talked about atmospheric boiler vs sealed boiler. I don't really understand what he mean by that. IMO you should probably find a new plumber/boiler man. I talked with a guy who's been working on them for 50+ years. As soon as I got CO2 out of my mouth he told me he knew exactly what the problem is. Seems there are rope gaskets in between the cast iron sections. He said they have probably deteriorated and that it would probably cost as much as a new one to repair. Any thoughts? Read below. Those gaskets seal the sections together. If they were bad you would be leaking water. I think they have nothing to do with the CO level. Are you letting the boiler get up to temp, or are you taking these readings as soon as it lights? The flue on any boiler needs to heat up some to start drafting properly. What type of heat emitters do you have??? You never said? And you did not say if he brushed the inside of the boiler and cleaned it properly? We are trying to help but your not giving answers the pros need here. Why Cast Iron Boilers Leak But anyway if you got the $$$ yeah replace it. By the time you fix the flue thats all taped up, and fix that water heater tee, have a combustion test done etc... you may be into close to $1000 from a pro. Myself I would not go electic. Looks like you have three zones there. Best to have a heat loss done of the home and size the new boiler correctly. I would get other estimates. IMO I am not liking the attitude of your plumber, but who knows? He might be the best thing since sliced bread!!! Like was said before its your home you can do what you want. Mike NJ The pipe goes into a chimney on the other side of the wall. So, by combustibles, are you referring to the floor joists and other exposed wood? If so, how do we correct that? And where the pipe enters the chimney... is it 'grouted' all around? Or is it just stuck into the hole with gaps all around the perimeter? Combustibles = anything that can burn. So yeah, wood, paper, etc... The pipes would need to be moved away from the combustibles, or the combustibles moved away from the pipe... OR things called 'radiation shields' would have to be properly installed. There is also a type of vent pipe called 'double wall' that reduces the clearance requirement to 6 I believe. This article while specifically geared toward wood burning appliances has some good information and it all applies to ANY flue pipe. http://www.homepro.ca/newsletters/WETT/4shields.pdf he said we didn't need one In other words: 1. He doesn't know do one. 2. He doesn't have the equipment to do one. 3. He doesn't want to do one. 4. He is ignorant. Here's the thing... you've detected CO levels that are way too high in your living space, that's a given. That CO is coming from somewhere, and leaking into your home, another given. The SOURCE of the CO needs to be found and corrected, FIRST. If your boiler or water heater is producing thousands of part per million of CO, it's nearly inevitable that some of that will leak into the home and give elevated levels. If your appliances are only PRODUCING much smaller levels of CO, then it stands to reason that even if there were a leakage path, the levels in the home would be much lower. After the SOURCE of the CO is found and corrected, then any leaks in the flue system would need correction. It's a two step process. How about an analogy? I had a dead mouse in the garage. Stunk to high Heaven. I sprayed three cans of Fabreze around. It still stunk. I found the dead mouse and disposed of it. It didn't stink anymore.
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