Wrong Size Expansion Tank!

One more expansion tank question, I swear! I just found out my expansion tank is too small. I installed a Watts PLT-12 expansion tank (4.5 gallon tank) a few months ago, and I decided on that one based on what I was told at the plumbing supply store and the Watts sizing chart for the PLT and DETA expansion tanks on their website. The chart says that 40 PSI air pre-charge is standard, and the value 40 PSI is automatically placed on the chart (even though it can be changed). The problem is, all of the PLT tanks have an air pre-charge of 20 psi. Using the 40 PSI value my tank is adequate, but the 20 PSI pre-charge makes my installed tank too small for my system. The only tanks they have with 40 psi pre-charge are the DETA (commercial) series even though the chart says 40 is standard!. Instead of my $40 expansion tank, it looks like I need a $150 tank just because of the pre-charge. Why does the pre-charge make such a difference when you just end up adding air to it to equal the incoming PSI from the water supply line? Can anyone help me make sense of this?

You can adjust/change the air pressure in your tank. 20psi is just what they leave the factory with.

I did adjust it according to my incoming pressure, but why does a tank with a pre-charge of 20 psi vs a tank with a pre charge of 40 psi affect the performance of the expansion tank? If I'm just going to increase the pressure to 60 psi anyway, why does it matter? It makes over a 2 gallon difference in how much the tank will take in according to their chart.

There is a flexible rubber bladder that separates the air and water. Since it's flexible the pressure on both sides will always be equal. It may leave the factory with a 20 psi pre charge but when you put 60 psi water into it the bladder will stretch and the air will be compressed into a much smaller volume until it too reaches 60 psi. The air is now squeezed into a much smaller space so it has less room to do it's job and can handle less expansion (tidal volume).
--
Boy, this is hard to explain without being able to wave my hands around.

Thanks for the help, The bladder psi should match your incoming water psi, I added 40 psi from my air compressor to the pre-charged bladder of air of 20 psi to equal the 60 psi incoming water pressure, how is that any different from me adding 20 psi from my air compressor to a pre-charged bladder of 40 psi to equal the 60 psi incoming water pressure?

It depends on the btu I believe by the expansion. Where did you get that calculator?
Change the pre charge to your incoming psi in the calc... What does is say now?
The pre charge always has to mach your static psi.

Use this...........................
Amtrol- Thermal Expansion Tank Sizing

Potable Water Expansion Tank Sizing - Support - Water Safety #38; Flow Control -Watts
The higher the number in the air pre-charge box, the smaller the size expansion tank you need.
I know it says air pre-charge, but do you think it means for you to enter the same number as your supply pressure psi?

I know it says air pre-charge, but do you think it means for you to enter the same number as your supply pressure psi?
Yes any expansion tank for DHW needs the air charge change to what the house psi is. Always.......


Tags: size, expansion, tank, expansion tank, equal incoming, expansion tank, incoming water, bladder equal, bladder equal incoming, bladder equal incoming water, bladder equal incoming water pressure, chart says, compressor pre-charged

Toilet Tank Bolts Leaking!

Hello, I am having one heck of a time trying to get my one toilet tank bolt from not leaking! Only one leaks, other is fine. I have torn the tank off 5 times now. I had the tank off to make more room for the remodeling I was doing. Neighbor who helped me put the tank on originally said he couldn't figure out why it was leaking either! He said he had never had a problem with one, ever! He said he had probably installed 100 toilets over the years and had never had that problem! He suggested maybe I put some blue silicone gasket maker on the rubber and see what happens. Any opinions, advice are always appreciated!! Thanks, Jack

Assuming you are using new bolts/gaskets the first thing you want to do is make sure that there isn't a hairline crack around the bolt hole.If there is you'll never get it to not leak and you need a new tank.
Adding gasket maker/sealant etc is an idea as long as fresh parts aren't doing the job.
This is also assuming that the tank is level and the bolts aren't unequally tightened.Also if you are using an old or incorrect tank to bowl gasket that could throw off things.

I have seen lots of them leak. Usually because there was only one set of nuts, the ones holding the tank on the bowl. My remedy was do like many old time tanks and put a set of nuts directly on the outside of the bottom of the tank. Then use a second set to hold the tank to the toilet bowel.

Are you installing metal washers inside the tank?

Originally Posted by ray2047
I have seen lots of them leak. Usually because there was only one set of nuts, the ones holding the tank on the bowl. My remedy was do like many old time tanks and put a set of nuts directly on the outside of the bottom of the tank. Then use a second set to hold the tank to the toilet bowel.
The original builder used one set of nuts on all of the tanks in my house and they seem to seal this way forever until you remove the tank and then you can never get them to seal.
Only way i figured it out was by buying a new set and following the instructions.
SOB builders must save a mint on all those nuts!

Thanks everyone! I tried once again with no success! I bought a brand new bolt kit and reinstalled them using the blue gasket maker silicone. I used the 2 bolts with the metal washer, followed by the rubber. Put gasket maker around the rubber and seated the rubbers to the bottom of the tank. I then put the same rubber, metal nut combo on the bottom. Tightened the wingnut as equally as I could and waited 24 hours. Tried today and it still leaks! I have taken the tank off about 3 times but I may have to again to check for cracks around the bolts. I know the toilet isn't the most level, but it had sealed before. Only thing I did when I remodeled was to add 1/8 inch tile board behind the toilet. Neighbor guy said maybe the 1/8 inch I added may have pushed the toilet forward and that may be what's causing my problem? Thanks again! Jack

Jack,
Just to make sure we are on the same page the HW should be assembled as follows:
Bolt
Metal washer
rubber washer
tank
rubber washer
metal washer
nut - tighten this nut independently from wingnut
toliet base
nut or wing nut
With this arrangement the wingnut has little if any effect on sealing. In fact if you over tighten the wingnut you may negate the effect of the second nut. My toliet base even has a recess for the second nut.
Again for some reason contractors will omit the intermediate nut which seems to work when the unit is new. I went through the same rigamarou as you did until I installed the center nut.
Apologies if you are already doing this but I don't see how it could leak if the center nut is tight and the wing nut is just snug. The rubber washers must be tight on the bolt shaft also so water can not run down the bolt shaft. This is also why it's a good reason to get all new HW that is made to work together.
I'm going mostly from memory here but that's what mine looks like. I have a Mansfield toliet.
I suppose you could even run an experiment with the tank off the toliet and check for leaks.

I may have the bolts on wrong! I'll check them and see! Thanks again! Jack

I put the bolts on right this time, although it's still leaking! What's odd is it seems to leak more when you flush the toilet. Like it leaks more as water is entering and exiting. When the water is just sitting idle in the tank it hardly leaks at all. I looked it over again for cracks and couldn't find any. I'm about to say, screw it and buy a new toilet! Any advice, opinions, are always welcome! Thanks! Jack

I had a similar problem and it was my fault. I was putting the metal washer under the brass bolt head and that created the leak. The rubber must go against the brass head to seal against leaks down the treads of the bolt along with sealing against the tank wall.
(No metal washer) goes inside the tank anywhere in this repair.
That right off the box of a ACE hardware kit.
Good luck..
Larry

Correct. No metal washers inside the tank.
This isn't a tank bolt problem anyway; when he described that leaks more when you flush it ...it means that it describes the tank to bowl spud gasket is either misaligned, deteriorated or not the right one for the toilet.
You need to get the OEM gasket to correct this problem.

I have done a few hundred of these in my life and the only time I suffered brain damage was about 10 yrs ago with a Gerber closet. I only recall that you MUST have the OEM donut. There are probably some other brands that require this also. I do think the tank to bowl gasket is your problem since it leaks more when flushed.

Thanks all! I believe and hope your right! I put on a new donut gasket today and last I knew I only saw a drop or 2 on the floor. I thought that also might be the problem as the donut gasket looked pretty rough! Also, someone had put silicone all around it at one time. So, I scraped all that off and replaced the gasket. Flushed the toilet about 6 times and no leaks. I do have another question. This house I'm working on is one I inherited and grew up in. My question is: How come some toilets sweat a lot and some seem to not sweat at all? The one at the house I'm working on has always sweated a lot! Any ideas? Thanks! Jack

Sweating is due to cold water in the tank and warm humid air in the room. Lots of times the closer to the water supply, the water will be colder, so the tank sweats. The ones at the other end of the house or upstairs have time to warm the water as it travels through the pipes (or has been sitting in the pipes) so it comes in the tank warm or ambient..no sweating occurs.
Also, many times the tank in a 1/2 bath won't sweat, but the full bath will. Someone needs to take shorter showers and run the exhaust fan longer..lol.

Thx 4 taking the time to give ppl advice. It's because if this advice I went back to the toilet with success. It turns out my toilet was only leaking when flushed. I secured the bolt with and without the metal Washer as a test. It seemed the bolts were leaking when I sat it on the toilet so because u guys said the water was coming from the gasket, I checked it. Turns out the tank wasn't situated on the toilet straight or in my case crooked. After turning the tank a little the leaking stopped. My tank can't be straight. It must be slanted to keep my casket from leaking. And here I thought the water was coming from the bolts. Thx everyone for posting this stuff. I hope mine helps someone else. Kay.

I realize this thread is old however, it was able to help me with a problem I have stressed about for months. Thank you ALL for your input! It was the discussion itself that led me to resolve my leaking toilet tank problem.
In a nutshell... Had to go in and replace fill valve, did that problem fixed however isn't this sometimes the case. Fix one thing and another thing comes up. While replacing the fill valve figured I would replace the nasty looking bolts and washers that attach the fill tank to the toilet bowl itself. All brand new hardware, rr and now one of the three bolts is leaking water. Brand new washers, prepped the area properly and still it leaks.
Well, in the end after reading this post I saw where someone had mentioned that there is to be NO metal washers in the tank(above the rubber gasket). I would have sworn (but wouldn't bet my life on it) that the old hardware I removed had metal washers and that is why I included them thinking they were needed. However two out of the three are not leaking so as the saying goes... if it ain't broke, don't mess with it. I removed the one metal washer and done, NO MORE LEAKING! YES!!
Ok, so not exactly in a nutshell...lol Thanks again!!!

Glad some of our older posts help with problems, and glad you are reading them. Let us know if we can help further.

Sorry to revive an old thread again, but just wanted to thank the members here as it solved my problem as well. Toilet was running, so I bought a new flush valve assembly and the toilet began leaking from the back when flushed. I returned that kit and bought one to replace everything on the inside and I got it so it was leaking out of only one bolt.I have a Gerber toilet and reading this thread made me try everything with the old sponge gasket. It didn't feel like it fit right at all, but once I added the middle washer and nut back into the assembly and tightened everything it looks and works like a charm. Thanks to everyone (especially Dunbar Plumber and Handyman663) for saving me a call to the plumber!

The best way to seal the hold down bolts at the base of the toilet tank is to coat the inside rubber washer with plumbers pipe dope and the rubber washer on the outside of the tank with latex caulk. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten the bolts to the tank with hex nuts. I use a slotted screwdriver from the inside of the tank. A little bit past hand tight should be sufficient- be careful not to over-tighten as you risk cracking the tank. Put the tank aside for 30-60 min, to give the pipe dope and caulk a chance to set. Re-install the tank on the toilet.

Thread ran its course..... Closed. Please start new thread with similar issues.


Tags: toilet, tank, bolts, leaking, tank bowl, gasket maker, inside tank, metal washers, rubber washer, tank toilet, bottom tank, leaks have, leaks more, metal washer

Roof Cleaning Solutions

Just wondering if anyone has any ideas on roof cleaners. I have an asphalt shingle room that is not that old and is already getting the black mold/algae all over it. Just looks ugly. Ive seen a product on TV called Spray and forget but its pretty high dollar with no guarantee at all. Around $45-50 for a spray on concentrated version. Are there any products out there that actually work for roof mold/algae?
Thanks

I've used a concentrated roof cleaning product from Home Depot which I applied with a pump sprayer. Smelled like earthy dirt. In one area I had pretty good success, but in another it didn't do much. I neded to re-apply a second coat. I have found in the past using a bleach/water mix has some success too. Afterall it is mold we're talking about. Not sure what it does to shingles, but mine has fallen off yet and they're 15 years old.

A bleach/water solution should work well. The biggest problem is to clean it well, it should be scrubbed or pressure washed but both will shorten the life of the roof!!

Soft bristle brush (sorta like a carwash brush)..apply, lightly scrub, rinse..repeat.
The roof will be very slippery.
I personally like putting a bit of a soap solution (just a teaspoon or less) to help keep it drom drying too quickly and to help it cling a bit.

Originally Posted by marksr
A bleach/water solution should work well. The biggest problem is to clean it well, it should be scrubbed or pressure washed but both will shorten the life of the roof!!
Neither scrubbing nor pressure washing is required when applied correctly, I clean hundreds a year and rinse from the ground spraying up in the air to mimic rainfall.

Hi,
I am no expert but all the roofs in my area suffer from the same issue. I have a black roof so dont get staining. All the roofs that are light colored here stain on the northern side of the home.
Anyway there is a guy been coming in here putting the zinc strip at the peaks. All the roofs cleared up nicely. Its pretty amazing really. I dont know where he gets the material from but do a search and you will find info on it.
I am only basing this from what I see. Next time I see I will ask if he has a website with pics.
Just a thought.
I found this site. I am sure there are others. In fact that stained roof on the home page is exactly what the roofs look like here in NJ. They are all cape cods like the pic shows also.
I have seen it so I know it works. Some roofer might chime in. I am not sure though if it degrades the roof or not. I would think not, but I am not a roofer.
ZincShield zinc strips LiquidZinc chemical stop prevent roof stains from algae, fungus, mildew, mold, moss
Mike NJ

Two year old thread...........

LOL..... I did not even notice...... Oh well better late then never...
Ha, ha... funny.
Mike NJ


Tags: roof, cleaning, bleach water, biggest problem, biggest problem clean, biggest problem clean well, biggest problem clean well should, bleach water solution, bleach water solution should, bleach water solution should work, both will, both will shorten

Poulan Chainsaw Fuel Line Disaster

I have a nice Poulan 2150 chainsaw and every fuel line has dried up and crumbled. There's a large and small line in top of tank, on the carb and on the primer but I have no idea route the new lines. And how do you get the new lines down through the tank? WOW!!!

The smaller diameter line is the supply hose for the carburetor. This one should have the fuel filter attached to it and run to the input on the carburetor. The larger diameter line will run from the carburetor to the suction side of the primer bulb, and then from the output side of the primer a small section of the larger hose is used to return the fuel back into the tank.
I usually use a piece of tie wire to pull the hose up through the tank where I can grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Best of Luck....

Originally Posted by 30yearTech
The smaller diameter line is the supply hose for the carburetor. This one should have the fuel filter attached to it and run to the input on the carburetor. The larger diameter line will run from the carburetor to the suction side of the primer bulb, and then from the output side of the primer a small section of the larger hose is used to return the fuel back into the tank.
I usually use a piece of tie wire to pull the hose up through the tank where I can grab it with a pair of needle nose pliers.
Best of Luck....
Man, you saved my saw! Couldn't have asked for better instructions! MANY THANKS!!!

Poulan 2050 chainsaw. Fuel line routing. Replaced all fuel lines. Primer bulb is marked tank and carb side. Tank side is for larger line and runs into tank and fuel filter. Carb side is smaller diameter line and runs to carb but which fitting? Remaining carb nipple with small line runs to tank vent and sticks about 1 inch into tank top. Pushing on primer bulb PUSHES air OUT of fuel filter and sucks from carb side of bulb. Pulled out primer bulb and verified action separately. Definitely pulls from carb side and pushes into tank side which makes no sense to me at all. Going backwards like that would require source of gas to be from vent line in tank which isn't low enough into tank and would not be filtered. Can't believe primer bulb is suddenly working backwards. Hope you can help. Thanks. Rick

Rickman, I replied to your question in the separate thread you posted.

Originally Posted by cheese
Rickman, I replied to your question in the separate thread you posted.
I'll try to figure out all of this today and let you know what happens. Thanks a lot!

Originally Posted by cheese
Rickman, I replied to your question in the separate thread you posted.
Rick, I figured out one thing. The primer pump will work only one way. The carb side of the pump goes to a BRASS nipple on the carb and the tank line with the filter goes to the PLASTIC nipple on the carb (the one closest to the carb diaphram). That's the way mine is anyway. If you plug the carb side of the pump to the wrong carb nipple, the pump bulb will not expand back out. Hopes this helps.
Now, back to my problem. I absolutely CANNOT get the lines pulled through the tank holes because the fuel lines are so slick, the wire will just slide right off. Any suggestions?

Originally Posted by rickman235
Poulan 2050 chainsaw. Fuel line routing. Replaced all fuel lines. Primer bulb is marked tank and carb side. Tank side is for larger line and runs into tank and fuel filter. Carb side is smaller diameter line and runs to carb but which fitting? Remaining carb nipple with small line runs to tank vent and sticks about 1 inch into tank top. Pushing on primer bulb PUSHES air OUT of fuel filter and sucks from carb side of bulb. Pulled out primer bulb and verified action separately. Definitely pulls from carb side and pushes into tank side which makes no sense to me at all. Going backwards like that would require source of gas to be from vent line in tank which isn't low enough into tank and would not be filtered. Can't believe primer bulb is suddenly working backwards. Hope you can help. Thanks. Rick
Hi Rick, ... thread is pretty old but others may see it searching like I am. I suspect that the elusive vent line actually pressures the fuel tank as it purges the carb. That may even be the essence of the fuel delivery system, that maybe the diaphragm pump pressures the fuel tank to push fuel up the carb line. My Poulan Pro 4218 AVX has a third line that runs from near the crankcase to the fuel tank so with a check valve there would be your fuel pump. Or maybe not. I've studied this thing backwards and forwards for weeks with little to show for it other than massive arm muscle development. My compression turns out to ne 60psi dry and double that with a bit of oil on the piston (wet test) so unless I discover something new I'll be installing the piston ring I bought yesterday. The encouraging thing is my little 16 non-pro Poulan runs like a top with more hours on it, and makes 120psi compression. Go figure! ...

Igya, this is a lot later, but may be helpful to someone who searches the thread. Your pump is not backwards, your lines are. The LARGER line should run from the bulb back to the tank and just enter it an inch or so. The smaller line runs from the carb to the fuel filter in the tank, and should be long enough that the filter can fall to the bottom of the tank. The pump actually pushes air from the bulb to the tank, then refills - drawing fuel through the filter, the carb, and into the bulb.
As for getting the lines through the tank, the technique I use is to cut the line at a shallow angle, say 30 degrees. this gives a tapered end about one-half inch long. I then take a sewing needle and medium-heavy thread and sew tie it to the tip of the tapered end of the line. Now you can pull the thread out of the tank and the tapered end of the line will come out easily far enough to grab it with needle-nose pliers or forceps. Once you have ahold of it, the rest is easy.
PS: Make sure you put a little fuel/oil on the outside of the line it will slide through easily, without stretching.


Tags: poulan, chainsaw, fuel, line, into tank, fuel filter, line runs, carb side, diameter line, from carb

Minn Kota All Terrain 40# Trolling Motor Foot Pedal Issues Buy It Or Run

I have an oppertunity to buy what was described as a Minn Kota All Terrain 40# with foot control in excellent condition for $100. Come to find out it came new on a 1998 boat and the pedal sometimes works and sometimes doesn't... excellent condition... maybe not?? I'm still waiting for a better description of what works and what sometimes does not. The seller said I think that it just needs adjusted but I don't know do it..... that worries me too.
I can't help but think that the foot pedal can be taken apart and fixed. The motor pivots on cables leaving only the speed control, ON/OFF, and direction if it even has that, as the electrical side. Probably a few switches and a rheostat or potentiometer. I'll bet that I could fix it but being sold as is, fixed or not I would own it.
I'm also thinking that this is not a Maximizer type motor, the age scares me a little, and 40# may be the minimum I would need for a 16 deep V. This thing also includes the bow mount and all hardware.
I kind of had my thoughts set on a Minn Kota 55# V2, if for noting else, it looks like it takes up less room on the bow. That is a maximizer motor but of course they are much more expensive.
What's your opinion?

Darn... someone beat me to it. Still would like to know though....

I think the power drive unit is well worth the money. I had a cable driven model for a year and after switching I won't go back. It's so nice to be able to move around the boat and still be able to control the motor.

I think you are right about moving around, I am also reading about tripping over the rigid cable. Having never used one I can only guess that the feel of turning a motor on a cable wouldn't be less than ideal as well.
I do have a line on a used Minn Kota V2 55# but the guy is asking $400, that sounds too high as compared to a new one. Also the guy is 4 hours from my home but 1.5 hours from a worksite have I drive to once in a while. At that price, maybe he'll need some Christmas cash and drop it a little if I wait him out.

$400 is a little high, I sold my v2 with universal sonar for $350 after using it once it literally didn't have a scratch on it.

I think I'm more in the $250 - $300 range for that.


Tags: minn, kota, terrain, motor, foot, pedal, Minn Kota, excellent condition, hours from, Kota Terrain, Minn Kota Terrain, think that

Installing A Transom Over An Interior French Door

I am looking for some advice. I am planning on installing a set of French doors between my foyer and what was the living room which is now a large office on the main level of my center hall colonial. I have 9' ceilings on this level and the opening for the doors is currently 82 1/2 wide by 92 3/4 high. This strange measurement lines up the top of the molding for this opening with the molding around the main door that has a tansom over it. Opposite to this opening is the opening to the dinning room which is the same height.
I have gone to HD and looked at some stock french doors. It appears that the options I have are 4',5' or 6' wide and 80,84 or 96 high. None of these seem to fit without some serious framing efforts. I was hoping to go with the std 80 doors and put a transom (a standard one) above it maybe 10 high (depending on availability) and bite the bullet and frame out the one side of the door jam to meet the width required.
My first question is Are there any custom mfgs out there that can make a door to fit this space? I have searched around and have not come across one yet.
Next if I go this route, the top of the opening already has a header in place. What do I need between the transom and the top of the frame of the 80 French door (2x4 laid flat?)
I am cringing at this project that I might have to mess with all the framing on this opening and then also on the dining room opening to make the heights uniform. This turns a somewhat complex job in the office and foyer into a mess with the foyer,office and dining room opened up and all will need new paint etc.
Any suggestions are welcomed.

Welcome to the forums! I think you have an ideal situation, with minimal framing involved, since your header is already in place. That is the biggest obstacle. When I read your title, I said, Oh no. But you're good.
I have replaced entrance doors in the same situation with larger doors with smaller doors and transom lighting (non opening). It did require a special order from my local door place, but it was worth it. Customer did like it, too .
There are many dealers out there and manufacturers.....Jeld Wen, Pella, Peachtree, Andersen, so you have a myriad to choose from. A visit to a showroom will help. I use Jeld Wen, mainly because they are in our sleepy town, have a show room, and I go to church with the guy who owns it. BUT, they deliver what I need. The door/transom will come built as a unit, so it is a matter of taking measurements at 3 locations on the sides and top to bottom across. Write them down, and let them go to work with their computer. They can design one and have it built to your liking.
Who said cheap?? No, but it will fit, be beautiful and last a long time.

Custom heights and transoms are available, at a cost. With some basic carpentry skills, some lumber, moldings and a piece of glass you can can make the transom after you install the stock doors.

chandler,johnam,
Thanks for the response. I am going to investigate the custom size doors and I guess depending on the price it will determine how much effort I want to put into using the std doors and fitting everything. How much could a custom door be 2 or 3 times the cost of a standard door?

I should think 1.5 to 2 times the cost of a regular set. While it seems expensive, you will be pleased with the results, IMO. Good luck, and let us know how it goes.


Tags: installing, transom, french, door, this opening, dining room, doors transom, mess with, room which, situation with, times cost

Grate/Hearth Heaters

I am trying to get more heat from the fireplace into the house. I do not really want to do the insert thing (hard to move and the real boss does not like the way they look, and I (hate to admit it) tend to agree).
In a previous home we had a hearth/grate heater than consisted of tubes (that you set the wood on) with a blower plenum on the bottom that drew suction from the bottom, heated the air and blew it out the top (would also work by natural convection in the event of a power outage). The problem was the material was probably not the best for the job and eventually the tubes rusted through (high heat, direct contact, great for oxidation). This design also required the doors be open to use it. It did do a good job of heating the house, though.
New house and we are looking for something to do the same thing. I was going to build something using bent exhaust piping (should be able to handle some of the heat), but I was afraid, if it did develope a small leak because I used the wrong material, it may start spewing carbon monoxide into the house, not a good thing. I have looked at a few other designs on the net, some identical to that in the old house and others that require lifting the door assembly up and blowing air (through tubes) through a heat exchanged that is nothing more than the grate and passing the warmer air back through the vent under the door. I have a product in mind (looks to be very good), but would appreciate any input from the experts... or anyone who has used the under door models.
Thanks

I am in the same situation as you. I want a lot of heat from my fireplace, but the boss does not want anything too ugly. I just ordered a product called the fireplace radiator. It should be arriving any day now. I do not have doors on my fireplace, jsuta removeable screen. Follow this link:
http://fireplaceradiator.com/
Scott

Actually, interesting you mention that product. it is the one I am considering. It would be great if there was any other feedback from someone who has used one.
I am curious what made you choose this over the others?

Here are some of hte reasons i chose the Fireplace Radiator. It looks like a better stronger design made of cast iron unlike the Cozy Grate Heater. The fan is on the outside of the fireplace which seems safer. The fan can also be removed when you ar not using it in the summer. It has a 5 year warranty. They are both sold at http://www.northlineexpress.com/fireplace-grate-heaters.asp and they say the fireplace radiator is the best.

I placed my order today (let us/me know what you think when you install yours). I used a different vendor (everything was the same except they offered an additional year warranty on the electrical components and also had a few accessories to sell with it).
On paper it looks good, I know I will burn more wood than with an insert (but I have lots of wood to burn and do not want it to rot), but the boss will be happy with the open flame.

I am excited. Mine should be here tomorrow and I will update you and everyone on it. Just curious, who did you buy it from and what accessories did you get.
Scott

I placed the order through www.fireplaceradiator.com. There is a package deal with the Ember Chef (cooking rack that attaches to the device) and a cast iron pan for cooking. Nothing too fancy.

How did the fireplace radiator work out for you? I'm shopping similar products right now.


Tags: grate, hearth, heaters, fireplace radiator, boss does, cast iron, from fireplace, heat from, heat from fireplace, into house, placed order, under door, year warranty

Drilling Straight With A Hand Drill And A 6x6

Hello All,
Forgive me if this isn't quite the right topics area, but I thought it was the best bet.
I might be in a situation where I need to drill a few 5/8 inch holes through a cedar 6x6 with the post vertical and drilling about 8 feet up (for lag bolts to attach 2x6's in making a sort of arbor/pergola). I have a 14.4 cordless Hitachi drill that seems fine, and I have been practicing with scrap, but man is it hard to get the hole straight (meaning coming out of the board near to where it went in in terms of height and distance from the edge).
Any tips on how I could do this, or should I find a way to measure carefully (very carefully) and drill with the posts in the garage on sturdy ground (maybe even use a drill press). Either way, I'm sure being able to drill straight is a skill that can be taught/learned. Any help is appreciated.
Thanks!

It is one of those deals where practice makes perfect. I always sight the drill, bit and wood to get the right angle.
If you can get the location right it would be easier to drill the holes on the ground. 2 yrs ago my wife bought me a new cordless drill that has 2 level bubbles on it. I thought it would be great for drilling level holes - it is a feature I have never used, when i could use it I forget about about until after the drilling is done.

One way is to use a Swanson square (triangle), set on your work, next to your drill, and keep the bit square to Swanson. Early on, I had one of those drill presses where you could attach your own drill and clamp it in. I found it so helpful drilling straight holes...I screwed it to my lumber and, even if it was vertical like yours, it drilled perfect holes. Went by way of garage sale, I guess.

I've also seen the drills with the bubbles on them. Perhaps you could rig up something similar by taping a line level vial onto the top of your drill. (provided you can figure out get it on there level )
It is a skill that you aquire by practice. I have 12 long drill bits that I use when working on decks. The long 12 bit is easy to eyeball so that it is square with the work. Once you start the drill, you just have to watch the drill and keep it perpendicular to the work at all times. Holding a small 8 trisquare or speed square while you drill can help if you don't the the eye for it.
If you absolutely, positively need the hole to come out both sides in the exact spot, mark the location on both sides and come at it from both directions so they meet in the middle.

Thanks to all. Chandler, I think I found something like you used to have - a Drill Guide at Sears for just under $30.00.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00967173000
I saw a General Tool unit on Amazon, but it got awful reviews.
I doubt I will have enough time to practice as much as you guys have had, that plus the idea that I have 3 each 10 foot 6x6 clear heart cedar posts that cost me a bundle is enough to convince me to go with the tool! Maybe some day I will be able to do something like this like you all can by hand/with a square, but I a little risk averse these days. Thanks a lot for all the advice and for leading me to looking for a drill guide!
I'll let you all know how it works out!

Yep, mine was similar, but you strapped the entire drill in the unit. Seems like this one would do the job, regardless of the reviews. Its not like you will be using it every day, and for less than $30, you would have straight holes without destroying your wood.

To follow up on XSleeper's suggestion, insert your drill bit into the drill and place bit on level table with drill hanging out over the edge. Clamp down to hold steady. With the drill bit level, you can now place the line level on the drill in the level position and secure with duct tape.

I think part of my problem was I was using a 6 long 5/8 auger bit that really had a mind of it's own, but that little drill press adapter thing from Sears is great. There is no way most humans could drill that stright on their own. Again, I had three 10' peices of 6 x 6 clear heart cedar that cost almost $200 each and I wasn't taking chances, so the $25 purchase was worth every cent. However, that doesn't mean I don't appreciate all the drilling tips here. Thanks!


Tags: drilling, straight, hand, drill, your drill, drill that, both sides, clear heart, clear heart cedar, drill keep

Bury A Junction Box

I just had a patio installed in the place where I used to have an above-ground pool. I want to run 120 out to each end of the patio and I currently have 1/2 pvc conduit underground to where the pool used to be. When the pool was removed they cut the wires underground disconnected capped the feeder end in the GFCI box. This is where I want to connect and it's dead center of the patio. SO...Can I install a pvc weatherproof junction box to the old conduit with 2 branches out to the patio?

A junction box can be installed but it must remain permanently accessible. Buried under dirt or concrete would not meet the code requirement.

Well that just doubled my expense and complexity. What's the thinking? I thought the issue might be water leakage but it sounds like the desire is for future access for changes or inspection? How is this accomplished? I don't think in my 51 years I've ever stepped over an electrical access plate on someone's lawn...

THere is a very good chance that u/g conduit fills with water. Wire nuts are not rated for flooded use, plus splices and boxes are not allowed where not accessible. There are splices rated for burial using UF feeder, but you have conduit. WHat are the distances involved? Water jetting might work under cement. What exactly is the patio made with?

The issue becomes finding a buried box should a splice fail and being able to access it to make the repairs.

No need to go under the patio--it's simpler to go around I've already hand-dug the trenches. Each leg of the Y is about 32 feet long so I bought 100' spools. Sounds like I can pull new wire from the house all the way to one corner of the patio and then double back with a separate run of conduit around to the other corner. No underground splices but it'll take lots more expensive copper to do it that way.
I was hoping the rule against inaccessible boxes was for indoors only.
I wish I could use UF but the feed side conduit runs under my deck. I can access both ends to pull wire but I can't (won't) dig it up.

Could you staple the UF under the deck and then go underground?

Originally Posted by guy48065
Sounds like I can pull new wire from the house all the way to one corner of the patio and then double back with a separate run of conduit around to the other corner.
That's the way to do it.
I was hoping the rule against inaccessible boxes was for indoors only.
It's basically guaranteed an underground splice with fail anyway even if it was allowed.

Originally Posted by ibpooks
That's the way to do it.
Allrighty then. I now need about 130 feet of each color (5--N, G, H+2 switched) so I need to buy 500' spools. One way I can save some bucks is to buy the 3 main colors (BWG) and apply colored tape to additional wire from those spools. That's code, right? I see that frequently but I want to make sure.
Is it permitted--but maybe bad electrical etiquette--to just buy one color and use tape to mark the rest?

This might have a happy ending for me afterall. 500' spools are WAY cheaper per foot than 100' spools so if I can re-color 2 spools (green black) I'll have way less waste. I might end up spending less than my original plan and it will be to code.

The grounding conductor needs to be green or bare.
250.119 Identification of Equipment Grounding Conductors.
Unless required elsewhere in this Code, equipment
grounding conductors shall be permitted to be bare,
covered, or insulated. Individually covered or insulated
equipment grounding conductors shall have a continuous
outer finish that is either green or green with one or more
yellow stripes except as permitted in this section. Conductors
with insulation that is green, green with one or more
yellow stripes, or identified as permitted by this section
shall be used only as an equipment grounding conductor.

so if I can re-color 2 spools (green black
No. As PCBoss has clarified and I originally stated ground must be green, green/yellow or bare no recoloring allowed.
And to clarify my statement on neutral (the grounded conductor) #6 and smaller by code must be white.
200.6 Means of Identifying Grounded Conductors.
(A) Sizes 6 AWG or Smaller. An insulated grounded conductor
of 6 AWG or smaller shall be identified by a continuous
white or gray outer finish or by three continuous
white stripes on other than green insulation along its entire
length.

I got that. I meant I need to buy black and green but was going to recolor the only the black wires (to R,W,B).
I will end up with only about 50' of black wire left over but nearly 400' of green. Doesn't matter on this particular project but from the second code quote it sounds like not only are you forbidden to make a wire green but you also may not alter green wire to anything else. Correct?

That's the way I read it but wait for the pros.

The white conductor should have been white from the factory, not taped white in the field.
Green conductors are reserved from any other usage.

Conductors #4 and larger only come in black and will be taped in the field, including green and white. The smaller sizes need to have the proper color insulation.

Originally Posted by pcboss
Conductors #4 and larger only come in black and will be taped in the field, including green and white. The smaller sizes need to have the proper color insulation.
As a side note, I have seen factory colored conductors as large as 750 MCM, but these are special factory orders and generally only used on larger commercial/industrial jobs although not mandatory by NEC. Typically, what pcboss has stated is true in that supply houses don't stock factory colored conductors in #4 and larger because it isn't required.

Originally Posted by pcboss
The white conductor should have been white from the factory, not taped white in the field.
Oops too late now. I went with the other recommendation to tape all except green. It's done buried now.


Tags: junction, Originally Posted, green green, pull wire, wire from, about feet, against inaccessible, against inaccessible boxes, against inaccessible boxes indoors, against inaccessible boxes indoors only, around other, around other corner, back with, back with separate

Air Handler Problem

Hi!
I have a Carrier FA4 series air handler. Yesterday, Noticed that cold air was not circulating. Apparently, the outside unit is working fine but the blower is not turning. The blower won't kick in when t-stat is turned to on, cool, or heat. Tried jumping R to G, but still no blower. Appreciate any suggestions? Thanks.

Check first and see if you hear the blower relay click when you put the tstat to fan on???? With fan on see if you can spin the blower wheel and it runs if so can just be the capacitor. If not on too the motor. Dont run out door unit with out inside fan.

Thanks for the quick reply...
nope... no click when I turn t-stat to on. I tried turning blower with stat to on and the fan turns freely but wont turn on its own. What do I do next? How do I check the relay and capacitor, or the motor?

Feel the motor, is it hot to the touch? If yes, then it is probably getting power to it and the problem is the cap or the motor. If it's cold, then it's not getting power which would be a relay, circuit board problem. From here you'll need a test meter to check out the circiuts.

Well, the motor feels cold. How do I check the relay? Can I by-pass the relay and run power directly to the motor to see if it will run?
thanks...

And the serial number?
That'll help in getting the parts list and wiring diagram for the unit.
In the short term if you don't hear a fan relay click to start the fan, that's maybe your $20 fix.
Chris

The model # is FA4BNC048
The motor runs fine when I by-passed the circuit board. What else do I need to check?

Your fan is started and stoped by a relay on the circuit board. The fact that the fan doesn't work in normal mode but does in whatever way you bypassed it means you need a circuit board.
Look at the board and see if you see any brown or black spots where it may have fried.
You can either get a new board, at what ever price (I maybe able to look that up - next post) or leave the fan on all the time and pay nothing.
Chris

But this should be the part number : HK61EA006
DESCRIPTION BOARD CIRCUIT W/TDR
Hope that helps.
Chris

I got the control board I ordered online. I put it in and things are back to normal. Thanks for all the help!

That's why we come here. To help people like you fix the problem yourself and save loads of money.
Chris

Originally Posted by helpingsis
Feel the motor, is it hot to the touch? If yes, then it is probably getting power to it and the problem is the cap or the motor. If it's cold, then it's not getting power which would be a relay, circuit board problem. From here you'll need a test meter to check out the circiuts.
So my motor is hot...how do I tell if it will be the cap or the motor.....fan rotates freely by hand. I can hear the power trying to start it up and the constant HUMMMM but the fan is not turning.

The capacitor is always cheaper than a motor, so just replace that first. Make sure all the wires are hooked up and connectors aren't fried.
Tom

Originally Posted by bokdav1d
I got the control board I ordered online. I put it in and things are back to normal. Thanks for all the help!
Hi bokdav1d,
I have the exact same problem. How did you bypass the control board to check if the motor is working fine? If so, I want to order the board online, but in the meantime I need a cool house, I am burning in Arizona, please help, thanks...

Hi expert Community~
I too have a FA4 series AirConditioners (2 units operating separately and independant of each other. One unit cools all the bedrooms and the other unit cools Family and Living and general areas. I have a unique issue: Sometimes one A/C trips and starts cooling when T/Stat is lowered to below the indicated house temp; and the other does not trip. I live in Florida so it is hot around this time of year. When I say it does not trip the I HEAR NOTHING TURNING ON, whether on Auto or on ON position (cooling or heating). We have to use fans to push colder air from rooms to living area or vice-versa depending on which one is working. I went out to the Units in the garage and noticed one unit's copper pipe warm to mildly hot to touch and the other unit copper pipe sort of cold to touch. The Air Handlers outside the house in open sometimes has ICE formation on one of the pipe leading to the fan unit.
Can anyone diagnose and help me with series of checks I can perform and find out make them work both whenever I turn them on?
Many thanks.
fjk031

The one with the ice is the one not working inside? if yes, is the fan in that unit running?

my air handler isn't working right my condenser is running but the fan in my air handler isnt spinning or pushing air through i tried turning off then back on also tried testing my wires at thermostat power is there dont know about the return tho any help please its 95* in my house

I have had the same problem mentioned in this thread ealier four different times over the last 2 years where the outside unit runs but the inside unit fan will not blow or wont go off. Each of the previous three times it has been the control board HK61EA006. The fan is running now and will not go off and I am assuming it is that board again. Does anyone have any idea why this board would continue to go out like this? Can the thermostat cause this kine of issue?


Tags: handler, problem, circuit board, control board, getting power, other unit, relay circuit, relay circuit board, back normal, back normal Thanks, back normal Thanks help

Waterpik Instructions

Waterpik products

It has been estimated that two-thirds of people in the United States don't floss regularly. For many, it's too time-consuming or they simply forget. Fortunately, products like the Waterpik dental water jet can make the process easier, which encourages regular usage. A 2005 study published in the Journal of Clinical Dentistry found that the Waterpik was 93 percent more effective than floss at reducing gum bleeding, a leading indicator of gum disease.

Getting Set Up

Remove the reservoir and cover from the base. Fill the reservoir with lukewarm water, then replace the reservoir over the base, pressing down firmly. Insert the Waterpik tip into the center of the knob at the top of the dental water jet handle, so that the colored ring is flush with the end of the knob when locked into place. Turn the pressure control dial on the base of the unit to the lowest setting, then gradually increase pressure over time to your preferred setting. You may add two or three capfuls of your favorite mouth rinse to the water in the reservoir, but don't add baking soda, salt or other abrasive substances, as they can damage the unit.

Using the Waterpik

Practice irrigating while watching yourself in the mirror, without filling the reservoir or turning on the unit, until you become more familiar with the technique. Don't watch yourself in the mirror after turning the unit on, however, or you'll make a mess.

To use the Waterpik, lean over a sink and place the jet tip in your mouth, aiming it toward your teeth. With your free hand, turn the unit on. Direct the stream at a 90-degree angle to your gumline. You should close your lips slightly to avoid splashing, but allow water to flow freely from your mouth into the sink. Start with the back teeth and work toward the front teeth, gliding the jet tip along the gumline, pausing briefly between teeth. Continue until all the areas around and between the teeth have been cleaned.

Cautions

Supervise children while using a Waterpik. Don't direct water under the tongue, into the ear, nose or other delicate areas, since the product can produce pressures that could damage those tissues. Use your Waterpik for a maximum of five minutes, and allow it to rest five minutes before the next use. Do not operate the Waterpik where oxygen or aerosol sprays are being used, and don't use the unit if you have an open wound on your tongue.

Salary Of A Geologist In The Usa

Geologists can expect faster than average job growth over the next several years.

Scientists have been fascinated with our planet and its physical qualities for generations. Geologists are the scientific specialists that focus on the study of Earth and its composition and history. They commonly study rocks to discover when and how they were formed by using physics and chemistry. They may also make discoveries about the life of the earth by studying plants and animals, soil, mountains and rivers. Geologists in the USA can work in many different scientific scenarios, and salaries can vary widely.

Average Wages in the United States

Based on data from the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, in May of 2010, geologists earned a nationwide average salary of $93,380 a year. This figure represents an estimated 30,830 geoscientists, most of whom fell into the middle 50 percent of wages and made between $57,820 and $115,460 a year. Some geologists reported annual salaries of less than $43,820 a year, comprising of the bottom 10th percentile. However, those at the top of their field made their way into the top 10th percentile, earning more than $160,910 annually.

Around the Country

The BLS data demonstrate how significantly location influenced salaries for geologists. In fact, Colorado was the only state with a figure similar to the national average, $96,610 a year. Geologists in Pennsylvania reported an annual mean wage of just $67,860, and those in California made $84,480 a year on average. On the other side of the pay scale, geologists made a little over $100,000 a year in Washington, D.C., Massachusetts and Alaska, and those in Texas earned $125,070 a year on average. However, Oklahoma was the highest paying state in the U.S. in 2010, boasting an annual mean wage of $129,870.

Employer Pay

Geologists saw employment opportunities in many industries in 2010, but the largest number of them worked in architectural and engineering service firms for an annual mean wage of $80,460. Lower paying positions were found with state government, averaging $62,880 a year, or with management, scientific and technical consulting firms, averaging $73,990 annually. However, geologists working for petroleum and coal products manufacturers earned $118,910 a year on average, and financial investment companies paid $125,570 a year. The second largest employers of geoscientists, oil and gas extraction companies, provided an annual mean wage of $132,210, the highest of any industry.

Qualifications

Most geologists and geoscientists must posses a master's degree, but positions primarily based in research or post secondary education will demand a Ph.D. During formal training, geologists commonly study multiple areas of geoscience, including petrology, mineralogy and structural geology, as well as physics, chemistry and biology. Geologists also often need knowledge and skills related to modern computer and GPS equipment. Geologists who provide services that directly affect the public are required to obtain a license in many states.

Use Tin Ceilings As Kitchen Backsplash

Tin Ceiling Tiles

If you want a beautiful back splash for your kitchen, try using tin ceiling tiles. Tin ceiling tiles come in different design finishes and can be painted in different colors to match your decor. Furthermore, beautiful vintage ceiling tiles can give your kitchen an old world look due to its natural patina.

Instructions

1. Measure your kitchen back splash then purchase tin ceiling tiles that can cover all areas that you have measured.

2. Buy ceiling tiles from salvage yards, estate and garage sales. You can find faux ceiling and pressed tin tiles online or at your home improvement stores. You can buy them in different sizes, most commonly in 18x24 inches panels.

3. Remove the old backsplash and clean the wall where you will put your tin ceiling tiles.

4. Install by placing your first vertical row of tiles in the middle, just like installing ceramic tiles minus the messy grout. Add tiles until you reach the edge. Spray on adhesives to hold the tin ceilings in place then use finishing nails to install your tin ceiling tiles securely. Make sure that each tile is connected snuggly next to each other, aligning the edges or seams.

Trim or cut tiles using metal cutter or sharp metal scissors. Fold over the sharp edges using a plier and then press with your hand (use work gloves to avoid cuts) or hammer on a 2x4 inches of wood to flatten the edges.

5. Add a molding on the edges or leave them plain.

Tips Warnings

Paint your tin ceiling tiles any color you want by using paints used for metals. Metal spray paints can be used as well.

Use your tin ceiling back splash as a message board by adding magnets on top.

Use work gloves and eye goggles for protection.

Reset The Timing On An Embroidery Machine

Reset the needle and hook timing and feed timing to fix stitching problems.

There are two important areas for timing in an embroidery machine, the needle and hook timing and the feed dog timing. If the the hook, needle and feed dogs do not move in the proper timing, then the machine may skip stitches, only stitch on one side, thread may bunch up, fabric not move or the machine stops stitching altogether. Resetting the timing is one of the more advanced sewing or embroidery machine repairs. Most manufacturers recommend taking the machine to a professional sewing machine repairman or sending it back to the manufacturer. However, it is possible to reset the timing yourself at home, just make sure you have plenty of patience.

Instructions

Needle and Hook Timing

1. Disassemble the embroidery machine so that the spool case, needle plate and hook point can be viewed. The procedure for this disassembly will differ depending on the embroidery machine model. Check with your manual about the necessary disassembly steps to view and access these machine parts.

2. Take out the old needle from the machine and insert a new needle. Make sure the needle is installed properly and not put in backwards, a common timing problem.

3. Turn the embroidery machine hand wheel so that the needle goes to its lowest position. Once the needle is at the low point, turn the hand wheel again to move the needle back up 2.2 millimeters.

4. Loosen the hook point by unscrewing the secure screws or by loosening the belt pulley. Which one you will need to loosen depends on the machine model. Watch the hook point move as the screws or belt pulley is loosened. When the hook point rotates and is placed directly behind the needle, stop loosening the screws or pulley and tighten the belt pulley or secure screws. The needle and hook is now properly timed to work properly.

Feed Dog Timing

5. Change the stitch length so the machine is set to the longest stitch length.

6. Move the needle until it is 0.5 millimeters above the needle plate. Move the needle by turning the hand wheel.

7. Loosen the feed gears that move the feed dogs. The feed gear screws are normally located behind the back panel but may vary depending on the machine model.

8. Move the feed dog as it goes above the needle plate and then starts to move under and behind the needle plate. The moment the feed dog moves below the needle plate, immediately tighten the feed dog gears. The feed dogs are now timed to the needle.

Tips Warnings

Always reset the needle and hook timing before the feed dog timing.

Remove Jean Dye From Suede

Keep your suede clothing or shoes looking like new with a few simple tricks.

The dark indigo dye used in some blue jeans can transfer onto other clothes or shoes. Although it can be easy to wash your shirts, socks or even canvas tennis shoes, getting the dye out of suede is another issue. You cannot wash suede or use harsh products because you may end up ruining the leather. Instead, there are a few simple tricks to remove the jean dye from your suede.

Instructions

1. Rub the suede gently with a clean, dry white bath towel to remove some of the dye and to agitate the suede nap.

2. Rub the suede with a clean, white rubber eraser. This trick will remove almost all of the dry indigo dye. Gently rub the stained area until all or most of the dye is gone. You'll notice the dye will transfer onto the eraser, so you may need to switch to a clean side after a few strokes. You can also cut the dyed ends of the eraser off with a pair of scissors. To remove any remaining indigo tint, continue to the next step.

3. Dampen a clean, white bath towel. Pour 1 tbsp. of white vinegar into the dampened part of the towel. Blot the indigo tinted parts with the damp towel to remove any faint stains.

4. Brush the nap of the suede with a soft, clean toothbrush to finish.

Make Shoes Less Slippery

Make Shoes Less Slippery

So you've found the perfect pair of shoes but the problem is it is all you can do to walk in them because they are slicker than snot. This is especially a problem when you have bought them for the intentions of dancing. This is also a problem for the babies when they are learning and first starting to walk. More of a problem now since more and more people are using those glossy hard wood floors in their homes. Save the embarrassment of falling down by doing some of the following tips to your new shoes.

Instructions

1. Those shoes were made for walking so get them ready by lightly sanding the bottoms of the soles with some fine sandpaper. Do it lightly and slightly increase the motions if needed. You want to be careful not to damage the actual shoe but just rough up the shoe's soul so you can be light on your feet.

2. If you have an extremely nice pair of shoes and are afraid to try sandpaper you need to buy some bathtub appliques. These are available at any discount department store. Some might be to big for your shoes so you can cut them down. You can also buy something similar at specialty shoe stores that are just made for shoes. If you choose to use this method I would keep extra on hand. By on hand I mean at home and when you go out. The disadvantage is that they can fall off. the advantage is that it does not do damage to your shoes.

3. If you are broke, out of time or in a mad dash you can simply put tape on the bottom of the soles. Not clear tape, which is slick but masking tape, duct tape or even medical tape. You will want to apply several strips on the bottoms of your shoes. Be sure to take the tape with you. Like the bathtub appliques it can fall off fairly easy, yet it is easy to reapply to your shoes. Just be careful you show the bottoms to as tape doesn't look the best on the bottoms of your shoes.

Tips Warnings

Please be careful if using sandpaper. Make it a gradual change so you don't over do it. Test your shoes often while in the process.

Test your shoes before going out to make sure they are not slick.

Install Acp Fasade

Without backsplash panels, water will gradually damage your walls.

Acoustic Ceiling Products (ACP) offers a line of ready-made Fasade-brand thermoplastic wall panels. The panels look like tin tiles, but they cost less and better resist stains and scratches. The company advertises the line as backsplash panels because homeowners install them behind sinks to protect the wall from splashes of water. Unlike some fixtures, Fasade panels don't require nails, screws or cement for installation. ACP instead encourages buyers to attach the panels to the wall using adhesives.

Instructions

1. Measure the space behind your sink. For example, suppose that your wall space measures 30 inches high and 45 inches wide.

2. Measure each Fasade panel. For example, suppose that you have bought panels that measure 18 inches high and 12 inches wide.

3. Cut some of your panels to accommodate the wall space. With this example, you will need one panel and a further 12 inches of paneling to cover the wall's height, and you will need three panels and a further 9 inches of paneling to cover its width. Cut three panels down with the utility knife so that they measure only 12 inches in height. Cut one panel so that it measures only 9 inches in width. Cut another panel so that it measures 12 inches in height and 9 inches in width.

4. Cut off squares from the overlaps of certain panels. Cut the top left corner square from any panel that will have a panel to its left and a panel above it. Cut the bottom right corner square from any panel that will have a panel to its right and a panel below it. These squares must measure one-half inch in height and width.

5. Clean and dry the wall. Remove wallpaper or any other added texture, and sandpaper the wall until it is smooth.

6. Apply adhesive tape to the wall. Apply three strips along each length of wall that will take one row of panel. Press the tape to remove all air bubbles, then remove the strip's outer protective layer.

7. Press the lower left panel to its position on the wall. Affix additional tape on the panel's exposed overlap.

8. Add the remaining panels, working from left to right to complete the first row. Continue in the same manner to complete each successive row.

Tips Warnings

Cut against a straightedge in Step 2 to properly align your cutting path.

Consider adding an edge trim between the outer panels and the perpendicular walls.

Though some backsplash tiles can withstand direct heat, Fasade panels cannot. Do not install them directly behind stoves or ovens.

Copy Videos To Dvds With Dazzle

The Dazzle DVD Recording system comes with all the cables and equipment needed to convert your VHS or camcorder videos to DVD format, including its default computer program called Movie Star. Dazzle's intermediate computer program is compatible with Windows Vista, Windows XP and Windows 7, and your computer must be equipped with a working USB port.

Instructions

1. Connect one end of your RCA composite cable or your S-Video cable to the proper port in your VCR or video camera.

2. Connect the opposite end of your RCA composite cable or your S-Video cable into the connector port of your Dazzle DVD Recorder.

3. Attach the red and white RCA audio cables into the proper ports of your VCR or video camera. Connect the opposite end into the RCA audio port of the Dazzle DVD Recorder.

4. Open Movie Star. Click the DVD tab on the left side of the screen and press OK.

5. Click the Capture button and enter a name for your video file(s). Select a folder on your hard drive to which to save the converted files.

6. Choose DVC 150 as your Video Device. If using a camcorder, turn it to Playback mode. If using a camcorder or VCR, scroll through your tape to the point where you want to begin recording.

7. Select the Composite or S-Video connection when prompted by Movie Star, depending on the connection you are using.

8. Insert your blank DVD into your computer's disc drive. On the Capture screen, select the blank DVD as your DVD Burner.

9. Press the Start Recording button in Movie Star's main screen. Press Play on your VCR or camcorder. Press Stop when you want to stop video capture.

Tips Warnings

Use the S-Video cable if your VCR or video camera supports these connections, as they are of higher quality than RCA Video composite cables.

Please allow several minutes to several hours for your videos to transfer and burn to disc.

Change A Maytag Selfcleaning Oven Light

Oven lights enable a chef to keep an eye on the preparation of the food without opening and shutting the oven door. However, bulbs burn out over time and require replacement. Changing a Maytag oven light in a self-cleaning oven depends upon the type of bulb your unit uses. Replacement bulbs are available at appliance repair shops and home improvement centers.

Instructions

1. Allow the Maytag self-cleaning oven to completely cool. Open the oven door and pull out the two cooking racks.

2. Find the spring clip retainer securing the light cover. The retainer is around the neck of the cover. Hold the light cover with one hand and pull the retainer off with your free hand. If your Maytag oven uses the smaller halogen light bulb, pull the bulb cover straight off the ceramic socket.

3. Turn the old bulb counterclockwise and remove it from the socket, if your oven uses the 40-watt standard appliance bulb. For ovens using halogen bulbs, grasp the bulb with a paper towel and pull it straight out.

4. Screw a new 40-watt appliance bulb into the socket. If yours uses the halogen, hold the bulb in a paper towel and push the bulb into the socket. Do not touch the glass part of halogens bulbs because the oils in your skin will cause damage to the bulb.

5. Hold the bulb cover over the bulb and socket and slide the retainer ring over the neck of the cover. Covers for halogen bulbs simply push into place. Slide the cooking racks back into the Maytag oven and close the door.

Home Remedies For Sore Gums From Dentures

For people with false teeth, sore, aching gums because of dentures is quite a common complaint. Orthodontists can advise a way out of the pain but even before that, there are certain remedies that you can try at home to bring relief to your painful gums.

General Measures

As soon as your gums start to ache, take off your dentures and let the gums rest. Allow them their share of oxygen to remain healthy. At any time, and especially when you have dentures, you should try to keep your mouth clean. Maintain good oral hygiene by rubbing the insides of your mouth, particularly the sore zone's scar tissue, with a warm, moist, clean cloth. This will help keep infections at bay. Then meticulously clean the dentures with a tooth brush, taking care that every foreign particle in the false teeth crevices gets removed. Only after this thorough cleansing should the dentures be doused in the denture immersion solution and kept overnight. If pain due to your dentures still shows no sign of going away, visit your dental specialist for advice.

Home Remedies

The simplest therapy for sore gums caused by painful dentures would be to take off your dentures and rinse your mouth--with special focus on your gums--with warm saltwater. This is because salt has anti-bacterial characteristics, which aid in bringing out and draining any abscess that has formed on the gums because of the dentures. The salt in the rinsing water helps in protection against any wounds, cut or scrape on the gums. You could also douse the sore gum area directly with aloe vera gel, procured fresh from the leaves. Leave the gel in place for a while, do not eat or drink anything for at least an hour. This application will soothe the gums and other areas that are painful because of the dentures, and help in treatment of the soreness and bring almost immediate relief.

Dealing with Dentures

Remember never to wear your dentures for too long a period at a stretch. This is very important, especially if the set you are wearing is a new one. You should give your gums regular breathers and enough time to get used to the new dentures or they will definitely lead to soreness. Make it a point to take out your dentures for at least six hours daily, maybe before going to bed. Cleansing of the dentures should be done with certain cleansers made especially for the purpose and not with standard toothpastes. This is because certain components of toothpaste might adversely affect the sturdiest of dentures, leading to a bad fit, which in turn will lead to soreness in your gums.

Chinese Restaurants In Chinatown In Boston Massachusetts

Chinese food

Chinatown in Boston, Massachusetts, is the only historically Chinese area in New England. It is centered around Beach Street and borders the Boston neighborhoods of Boston Common and the South End. This densely populated area is home to many Chinese, Japanese, Cambodian and Vietnamese restaurants and marketplaces.

China Pearl Restaurant

The China Pearl is one of the most popular Chinese restaurants in Boston's Chinatown. This restaurant is casual and the decor is very Asian-themed. Some of China Pearl's specialties include vegetables and bean curd, their special sweet and sour sauce, lo mein, steamed barbeque pork buns and their fresh seafood--mussels, shrimp and crab. This restaurant is known for its dim sum, with servers pushing small rickety carts of food options past diners.

China Pearl Restaurant?

9 Tyler Street

Boston, MA 02111-1947

(617) 426-4338

chinapearlrestaurant.com?

East Ocean City Restaurant

This full service Chinese restaurant specializes in authentic Chinese fare and the freshest seafood. A City Search review states, \Seafood so impeccably fresh you can literally watch it travel via rubber bucket from fish tank to wok.\ East Ocean City is open seven days a week for both lunch and dinner, with lunch specials lasting until 3 pm. On the menu, there are options such as fried sea scallops, lobster with ginger and scallions, clams with black bean sauce, orange flavored beef, sweet and sour spareribs and peking duck.

East Ocean City Restaurant?

27 Beach Street

Boston, MA 02111-1608

(617) 542-2504

eastoceancity.com?

The Hong Kong Eatery

The Hong Kong Eatery, run by Johnny Chu, was originally opened by his parents in 1979 after they immigrated from China. Their goal was to serve Chinese food that Chinese people would want to eat, not Americanized versions of Chinese fare. Open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, the Hong Kong Eatery serves dishes such as salted chicken and fish with bean curd, short ribs with satay sauce, spring rolls, peking ravioli, steak with Chinese broccoli in oyster sauce and wonton lo mein.

The Hong Kong Eatery?

79 Harrison Avenue

Boston, MA 02111-1909

(617) 423-0838

hongkongeatery.com?

Underlayment For Cork Flooring

I'm going to be putting down the click and lock cork flooring in a finished basement and I'm unsure whether I need some type of underlayment. It's my understanding the underlayment acts as a moisture barrier. However, the concrete floor has radiant heating in it, with 2 of foam board beneath the concrete. I would think an underlayment for the cork flooring would not be necessary. Thoughts?

What does the cork manufacturer have to say?

I have not contacted the manufacturer, as the flooring is at Home Depot. I can look into it, would rather not go on HD's word alone though, I'll see if I can find the manufacturer. I thought it would be a simple answer.

It might be a simple answer but I tend to defer to whatever the manufacturer suggests and that can vary.
Someone like Chandler might be along in a few minutes with a good answer off the top of their head.

I'll just have repeat what Mitch said. Not because the answer is simple, but because you have a warranty to worry about, not only for the flooring, but the heat as well. Wrong underlayment, no warranty. The manufacturer will be the best source of information on that subject.
But let us know what they say, as it can help us understand their criteria as well as help others on the forum.

I found my answer from the manufacturer. You guys asked for an update if I was to hear back from them, so here is what they said:
Underlayment is not necessary with our cork floors, but you will need to install 6mil polyethylene sheeting over the slab as a vapor barrier. The integrated cork backing will perform as the underlay.
Note, that refers to the Millstead plank cork flooring carried at Home Depot.
hope that helps someone

Cool, thanks for the update.


Tags: underlayment, cork, flooring, cork flooring, Home Depot, simple answer, what they

Shadow Box Fence Stringers

Hello everyone, great forum! I am building a shadow box fence that will primarly be 4' in height, with one part of the perimeter being 5' high. This will be constructed using 4x4 treated posts, 2x4 treated stingers, and 1x6 slats (treated or cedar, not sure yet). Spacing of the 4x4 posts will vary but most have 7.5' between them.
I want a uniform look on the interior and exterior (just a strong personal preference), so I plan to run the the stringers toe nailed between the posts laying flat. Laying the 2x4 flat will allow me to acheive a consistent width on both sides because the stringer and the post will be the same width. However, realizing it would eventually sag, I plan to run another 2x4 directly underneath it. This one would be standing upright (3.5 side of the 2x4 running vertical this time) for the extra support. The 2x4's would form a T shape between posts.
My question is, to prevent the stringers from sagging over time, should I run the extra 2x4 under both the top and bottom stringer for support, or would just supporting the top stringer be enough? I'm not sure if the bottom stringer could even sag once all the slats are nailed to it, but I don't want to have to repair it later.
Secondly, I know 2 stringers are recommended between posts for 4 ft fence, 3 are recommended for 6 ft fence. What is best for 5 ft fence ?
Thanks !

I would do the T shape top and bottom and add the 3rd stringer to the 5' section. Easier to do now than after you have build the fence. Not sure what width the slats of the fence are going to be, but the extra stringer in the middle will keep them from bowing, twisting or whatever PT lumber does as it dries out.

Thanks for the input, that's exactly what I did today and it worked out well. Very sturdy and solid run of fence. Thanks again.

I just completed a somewhat similar fence. I have seen quite a few 6' fences with just two horizontal 2x4s providing the support, but after a few years they sag in the middle. I just finished my fence yesterday and I decided to add a pressure treated 2x6 as a kickboard with a 2x4 laying flat above it for the pickets to rest on. 4x4 posts are 7' apart. Before the pickets were installed you could easily stand on the stacked 2x6/2x4 bottom stringer and it felt extremely solid. The top 2x4 stringer probably isn't doing much except holding the top of the pickets when being side-loaded by winds.
Here's how it came out:
This was my first woodworking project. Would love to see how yours came out.

You might consider leaving some gaps between vertical boards the next time you build a fence. With the tight spacing, yours will act like a giant sail, wanting to blow over in a high wind once the post bottoms start to rot.


Tags: shadow, fence, stringers, bottom stringer, between posts, build fence, fence Thanks, support would

Question On Roof Shingles

I need to have the roof shingles replaced on my vacation home in New Hampshire. I've been given a very reasonable price by the local Lowes which includes stripping the old shingles, water/ice shield, and new flashing.
They apparently use Owens Corning TruDefinition 30 year shingles. Does anyone have any thoughts/experience with these?
Thanks in advance-

Do yourself a favor - go with a local roofing contractor.
You can find one at National Roofing Contractors Association
the Big box store subcontract and have very few quality controls over the final product.

I'm not a big fan of the big stores. As Seashell says, they don't have roofers on the payroll and only act as the middle man in the deal. That's not to say the subcontractor won't do an acceptable job. I'm not sure the NRCA is necessarily the best bet either. Although you would likely get a good job done that's not to say that a non-NRCA member wouldn't do a bang up job at a decent price. I checked my zip code on the NRCA site and there's only one that is closer than 20 miles and the closest is 10 miles. I know for a fact that there are quite a few quality roofing companies in the area.
Ask around. Chances are someone you know has had their roof done in recent memory.

I have a modest roof line, 2800 sf, no hips, valleys, one chimney. Big Orange was having a 10% off sale. Called them and the EMT's at the same time, because I knew I would need defibrilation after the quote JK
Their quote was $10k with the discount. I called a local reputable roofer and he just laughed. He said they were his best reference. Total cost, with tearoff, new flashing, new ridge, new drip, architectural shingles..$5600. Big Orange has to make some money, and they take theirs out of the middle, the juciest part.

So after further consideration, I decided to go with a local contractor who was actually referred to me to begin with (although his price was the highest).
However, he apparently uses IKO shingles. I haven't read a lot of positive reviews on these.
Any views on IKO vs the Owens Corning referred to above (the price with the Owens Corning is actually $500 cheaper)?

IKO, I believe, is a Canadian manufacturer. I have not had the pleasure of seeing them in use, yet. I will call my Step son today and ask him. He does roofing on the East Coast in SC. Just remember Morton Thiokol was the low bidder on the O ring for the Challenger.

OK, according to someone more in the know than I, IKO shingles are a lesser cost item with a warranty that they are not pleased to try to sell the public. An educated public can choose GAF, Owens Corning, etc, and pay a little more, but the warranty is there. There is a $100 Transfer fee when you sell your house, and the maximum on certain shingles is 15 years. The maximum they will pay is $40 per square for the mid grade shingles. Barely covers cost of shingles and installation....you gotta figure tear off, disposal and other preparatory items. He doesn't push the shingles for fear of problems down the road, and HE has to stand behind his work. Just doesn't work for him. Others may have a better skinny on it, so we'll hear from them, too. This was by no means a slam to IKO, it was information passed from a Roofer.

Originally Posted by chandler
OK, according to someone more in the know than I, IKO shingles are a lesser cost item with a warranty that they are not pleased to try to sell the public. An educated public can choose GAF, Owens Corning, etc, and pay a little more, but the warranty is there. There is a $100 Transfer fee when you sell your house, and the maximum on certain shingles is 15 years. The maximum they will pay is $40 per square for the mid grade shingles. Barely covers cost of shingles and installation....you gotta figure tear off, disposal and other preparatory items. He doesn't push the shingles for fear of problems down the road, and HE has to stand behind his work. Just doesn't work for him. Others may have a better skinny on it, so we'll hear from them, too. This was by no means a slam to IKO, it was information passed from a Roofer.
Thanks! Anyone else have any thoughts?

I had my roof replaced a couple months ago,and doing research on shingle manufactures
IKO was the least likely of my choices.
They were having problems with their shingles manufacturing. I suggest you google them
before you commit to the job.

I've never liked IKO as an installer because the shingles aren't great. The laminants on a lot of them don't line up which makes them a pain to get straight lines, not to mention that it's poor manufacturing. I've used Pabco for a long time and like them, but I don't think they're available in every area.
Great idea to go to a local contractor too. You never know who's gonna be up on your roof if you go with one of the BIG guys.


Tags: roof, shingles, Owens Corning, according someone, according someone more, according someone more know, according someone more know than, Barely covers, Barely covers cost, Barely covers cost shingles, Barely covers cost shingles installation, behind work

need-help-4t60e-transmission-problems

I've got a 1992 Olds 98 with the above transmission. Recently cold weather has set in my part of the country (kansas) and the transmission has been acting up when I start the car after it's been setting and had a chance to completely cool down. The problem is it won't shift out of 1st gear until I get the engine up to appox. 3000 rpm. Then service engine light comes on and sometimes I hear a short grinding noise then the transmission shifts to second. It works fine after that and the service engine light goes off. It does not do this everytime I start the car cold, only sporadically. It did it once or twice last winter as well (Note- it hasn't had this problem when the ambiant air temps are warmer, although it could be a fluke). It has done this a few more times this winter.
The local transmission shop got two codes to show up after investigating. A vehicle speed sensor code and the PRNDL sensor code. They want to replace both and see if it stops the trouble.
Do these sensors sound like they could cause the above problems or could the codes have been set as a result of another problem causing the sensors to appear bad?
Thanks,
Matt

Sure. If you doubt them, get a second opinion. Might be a good time for a fluid and filter change too.

This trans is all Comp controled and has to see V.S.S. input and PRNDL swicth input to determin when to shift. CLear all codes and test drive vehical. When vehical acts up rescan and check for codes. If no codes Poss intern prob. like lip seal on forward clucth drum not sealing when cold and has to warm up and swell to seal against drum. This is commond porb. on high mileage vehical. ----------Good Luck------Dave-----


Tags: transmission, problems, engine light, sensor code, service engine, service engine light

is-anyone-familiar-with-lochinvar-knight-problem

Hi everyone,
I have a Lochinvar Knight (KBN080) boiler that was installed this past summer. It has an outdoor reset and as such seems to make its own decisions on how warm my house should be, regardless of my thermostat setting.
Today was the first really cold day that we had (14єF/-10єC) with lots of strong wind (40 mph).
My house temp had been steady at 22єC (72єF) since the heating season began, but today I came home and it was at 18єC (64.5єF) so I cranked the thermostat to no avail. My home is now 17єC (62.6єF) and falling. My thermostat is set to maximum right now, but my radiators remain lukewarm.
What gets me is my boiler reads: BLR:SH 20% RATE which tells me that it's modulating, and only firing at 20% of its capacity. I could be wrong on this, but if I'm not, I'm mad. It has not been above 20% yet that I can tell.
If anyone is familiar with this boiler, how can I get it to fire at a higher rate and heat my home? I can link to the installation and service manuals in PDF if it would help.
Thank you!

I can't get anywhere on Lockinvars website.
Maybe you can send the manuals if you them in PDF

Here's the IO:
http://www.knightheatingboiler.com/knight/pdf/KB-IO.pdf
This is the manual for the PC software, but it lists all the available parameters and such:
http://www.knightheatingboiler.com/k...pdf/KB-PCP.pdf
Probably just needs an upward adjustment of the colder end of the reset curve. This is a new installation and the installer might be able to just tell you over the phone which parameter to adjust. Or he should just come over. Chances are it's not at the default for one or more parameters.

Thank you xiphias.
Here is the link to the service manual also.
http://www.lochinvar.com/_linefiles/KB-SER-07.pdf
Yeah, something is definitely not set right, because the boiler is definitely running, just not heating enough.
Am I right in thinking that it's not modulating correctly, as opposed to just not being able to keep up with the demand for heat?

It sounds like a simple reset curve problem.
Wherever it is on the reset curve, in order to supply the specified water temperature, it only needs to run at 20%.
Changing the reset curve upward will increase the water temperature for a given outdoor temperature. That increased water temperature will probably get the boiler to fire at 20%.
Not familiar enough with the Knight control to say precisely what parameter(s) should be adjusted. A very quick glance at the service manual suggest that perhaps B1 is too low (see page 17). The default is 125F. Maybe try changing that to 140F. This should basically make the reset curve steeper. If it works, this is a quick fix only.
There are adjustments you can play with to move B1 and F1 (outdoor design cold temperature) around to change the slope of the reset curve. Just making it steeper may cause more cycling at warmer outdoor temperatures. And of course there's a ton of other tweaks that can be done to this control. Training and experience would help for all that.
Ideally, you'd want to take your heat loss calculation and compare it to the output of your radiation at various water temperatures to determine values for B1 and F1.
Say your design temp is 0F. Say your design temp heat loss is 50,000 BTU/hr. Say your radiation can output 50,000 BTU/hr using 140F supply water.
You'd set F1 for your design outdoor temperature (0F), and set B1 for the supply water temperature that gives radiation output equal to the heat loss at design (140F).

Okay, this (the calculation) is a bit more complicated than I thought it would be based on how I understood it from the manuals. However, I'm always willing to learn.
I did play with some of the F values (IIRC, F3, max air temp) (because the boiler would not heat my home when it was 60єF or above outside. I never did fix that problem before it got colder).
I know my design temp (5єF) and my design heat loss (40,000 BTU). What I do not know is my radiation output for the supply water temperature.
According to the display on the boiler, my current supply water temperature is 130єF. I know it's not high enough but I don't know figure out what it should be set to. (in other words, calculate B1).
Should I just call the installer or is this something I can do myself?
Thanks for all the help, I appreciate it.

For now, set B1 to 145 and see how it does.

Before going to bed last night my house was 15єC (59єF). Outdoor was -10C/15єF and windy. I didn't change the curve parameters, but I did change the SH SETPOINT in the user menu from 130єF to 145єF as suggested. I noticed that the firing rate went from 20% to about 35%.
When I woke up this morning my house was 17єC (62.5F). So before going to work I increased the setpoint to 155єF, and by lunch time the house was at a more comfortable 18.5C (65.3єF). I would like it to be back at 22єC/71.6єF.
It is a bit confusing how you can set the output water temperature in a few different places.
So apparently the water was just not hot enough. I do know that my last, very old, boiler would heat the water to 180єF (but it didn't modulate).
What I need to figure out is set the parameters in the new boiler to make the water hot enough to heat my home to the temperature I want in cold weather, but make the water cooler in warmer weather to stay efficient.

OK, so let's figure out the info you need to set the curve. First, what kind of heat emitters do you have? Cast iron radiators? Fin-tube baseboard? Other?
Second, do you have a heat loss calculation for the building?

This is my radiation system. I think it is the copper fin tube.
Yes, I have had a professional heat loss done. My design temp was 5єF and my heat loss was just a hair under 40,000 BTU/hr.
I increased the water temperature to 160F and outside it is around 20F now with less wind. I'm toasty warm now at 70F. Boiler says it's running at 35%.

i have same boiler and needed to make adjustments, too, for satisfactory operation.
the setpoint is the key to success: this is the temperature you (or the installer) instructed the knight to aim for, and when it gets close to the setpoint, it will modulate down the flame, since it figures its work is nearly done.,
as you have found out, there are many set point options. including which location it monitors,and the actual target temperature . Some adjustments you make are temporary, for that moment's heating cycle, some are permanent.
raising the set point will increase flame size, all else being equal. but all else is never equal.
i spent a lot of time studying the manual in more detail than i wished i needed to, and i think it's time for you to do the same. And it's not particularly well written or organized,either. good luck and happy studying.

Those are cabinet convectors. You are right that the elements are basically fin-tube, though.
How many convectors do you have, how wide are they, and do they all have 3 runs of fin-tube in them? And are they all open at the bottom to allow air to flow in and across the fins (they should be open). Is there a brand name on them?
Those fins are also pretty dirty. They would benefit immensely from a good vacuum and brushing. As NJ Trooper says, even a small amount of dirt and dust can really reduce the output.
Your design temp of 5 degrees F is the value to set for F1. But don't do that yet.
Once we get a handle on convector output, we can estimate B1 and adjust F1 at the same time.
When we get close, then we can also tweak the boost setting to backstop any poor estimates. But we're going to be well in the ballgame.
Can you get into the installer mode? Displaying and modifying F1 requires installer mode access.

msgale, yeah, I'm trying to study the manuals but keep getting lost. I found that things are not explained very well.
xiphias, I know, NJ has already lectured me about the fuzz. I've tried vacuuming them since the photo was taken but it didn't help much; I will need to get some compressed air or something and really go to town.
Most of the radiators have 3 pipes but the smaller ones have 2. I have a total of 9 convectors; 8 on the main floor and 1 in the finished attic. They are all open on the bottom. I cannot find a brand name on them.
I'll get their widths. Did you want me to add them all up for a total length of the pipe?
Yes, I know get into installer mode on the boiler.

An inventory of convector widths and number of rows in each should be sufficient.
a cheapie wisk broom (the corn kind holds up better than nylon) is pretty good for getting in between the fins. You can also cut/pull out extra dense bristles to give you just enough bristles to get down to the bare tube between fins.

Somebody really needs to invent a brush of some sort that makes it easier to clean them things... using an air compressor with a nozzle is the best way, but it sure does put a ton of dust in the air, and unless you spend the whole day and next week vacuuming it back up again, it ends up back in the convectors.
When I moved into this joint, I spent literally weeks... trying to get 40 years worth of dust outta them fins. The air compressor did actually seem to work best. First vacuum as much as you can, then with the vacuum running and the hose under the baseboards, bursts of air from the nozzle with the hose directly underneath seems to work best.
I've thought of spritzing them down first, and then using the air hose... with newspapers underneath... and dropcloths out about 4 feet or so... if the dust is wet, it won't go airborne.
Whatever, however, it is not a 'nice' job. Sometimes you find 'treasures' though... I found a postcard from 1951 from 'Aunt Jo'. Nice view of Asbury Park back in the day.

my setpoint is 179, set permanently, and the outdoor reset is turned off

Okay! Here is my inventory. I measured only the part with the fins on it.
1. 43, 3 pipes
2. 21, 2 pipes
3. 32, 3 pipes
4. 38, 3 pipes
5. 21, 2 pipes
6. 52, 3 pipes
7. 36, 3 pipes
8. 21, 2 pipes
9. 43, 3 pipes
@NJ - I think I am going to try the wisk broom method, since my radiators are hot all the time now. If it doesn't work well, I will probably wait until summer to try the compressed air, or maybe even your spritzer idea. (I would be afraid of cool water or that compressed gas warping the fins or something). The worst part I think will be removing those darn cabinets - they are almost impossible to get back on.
@msgale - I have honestly thought of doing that, since I like the way my old boiler would just heat to whatever the thermostat told it to; but then I think of all the money I just paid for this sophisticated energy saving technology and figure I should probably try and get it working the way it was intended.

OK, let's try this. Set
B1 = 180 Fahrenheit
F1 = 5 Fahrenheit
and see how it goes for a few days.
I looked up the output of a couple common cabinet convectors (Beacon-Morris SR-A and someone else I forget), and figured things a couple different ways.
With 180F water, you have a nominal total output of around 45-55k BTU/hr. (You may be on the lower end due to all that crud on the fins. )
So that means for your design temperature (5F) and heat loss (40k BTU/hr), 180F supply water should meet the heat loss with a bit of headroom to spare.
Assuming that you were on your way to getting the house back up to temperature with 155F water when it was 20F outside, after you set B1 and F1 above, the reset curve should pass through ~155,20. Which means that next time you have a 20F cold snap, the house should hold temperature. (FWIW, This is a reset ratio of ~1.7.)
What are the values for B2 and F4? Need to know this so we know the true slope of the curve and make sure the warmer weather performance meets your needs.

Okay,
I've set B1 (SH Setpoint User) to 180єF (was previously set at 160єF which is where I set it)
And F1 (Minumum Air Temperature) is now 5єF (was previously 24.8єF)
B2 (SH Minimum Setpoint) is set at 69.8єF
F4 (Minimum SH Setpoint) is set to 70.7єF
To be honest, I don't really understand the difference between the two.
Thanks, xiphias, for all of your help. It is appreciated. I'll try this setting for a few days, but it's been quite mild (mid-30's). We might go into the 20s on Wednesday.

Don't thank me yet!
What's F2 set at? The default is 70F, which should be ok.
Cold coming later this week. Should be a good test.
As you watch/feel what happens over the next few days, keep an eye on (+write down if possible) the space temperature, outdoor temperature, firing rate, etc.

F2 is 69.8єF.
I'll try to document these next few days. I haven't ever seen the boiler go above 35% for space heating. It's usually at 29%.

If the heat loss is 40k, and the boiler is 80k, it probably won't ever modulate above 50k. And because the heat loss is usually an overestimate, maybe not above 40-45k. So less than 50%.

Avatar, I assume you got your boiler problem under control. I have a Lochinvar 105 and had the same problem you were having. Our boiler would take about 2.5 hours to bring the heat up in the morning. I talked to a Lochinvar technician and he recommended the following settings:
F1 - 20 degrees F
F2 - 69 degrees F
F3 - 175 degrees F
F4 - 120 degrees F
B1 sh setpoint - 175 degrees F
He said if it still lags too much to increase F4 to 125 degrees or to 130 degrees to increase the water temperature.
My situation improved after I used his recommended settings. The boiler still goes into the 20% rate mode and slows the rate of heating but I compensated for it by setting my programmable thermostat to turn on earlier in the morning.
Tags: anyone, familiar, lochinvar, knight, problem, heat, rate, heat loss, water temperature, pipes pipes